Travels in Southern Europe and the Levant, 1810-1817: The Journal of C. R. Cockerell, R.A.Cockerell, C. R. (Charles Robert)
History
Travels in Southern Europe and the Levant, 1810-1817: The Journal of C. R. Cockerell, R.A.
Cockerell, C. R. (Charles Robert)
Cockerell, C. R. (Charles Robert), 1788-1863; Europe -- Description and travel; Middle East -- Description and travel
After a stay there of two hours we went on down the valley. We had now
quite left the desert behind us and come into civilisation, cultivation,
and orderly government. Every two or three miles we passed a cafané and
a guard, with an air of order and discipline. My janissary was full of
admiration for Karasman Oglu, and related to me stories illustrating his
character. I recollect two. A Greek merchant going to Akhissar was
robbed by four Turks of 800 sequins. The poor man made his complaint to
Karasman Oglu, who at once gave him the money, as recognising his
responsibility for order, and that the merchant might not stand out of
his money while it was being recovered. Then he despatched his police,
who in a few days brought in the four Turks, and they were then and
there hanged. The Turks resent his protection of the Greeks and
Christians, and call it partiality. Hearing of this, Karasman called
together the chief Turks of Magnesia, and when he had given them coffee,
he told them that he had summoned them as he wished to raise a sum of
30,000 piastres for government purposes, and they should be repaid in a
few months with the interest due. The proposition being received with
dead silence, he sent for four poor Greek primates of some small
villages in the neighbourhood, and made them the same proposal in the
presence of the Turks. They at once assented, and the money was brought
in an hour. 'Now,' said he, 'you see why I prefer the Greeks. The first
of you who complains again shall lose his head.'
When we got in the evening to Guzul Hissar I found the reports I had
picked up on the road exaggerated in two main particulars. I had been
told that the plague was raging in the town, and that there were English
corn-merchants to whom I could apply for harbourage. There was a good
deal of plague, no doubt, in the town, which is extensive, but hardly
enough to deter one from entering it; while the nearest thing to an
English merchant was a Genoese merchant living in the house of a
Sardinian doctor who enjoyed English protection. They made room for me,
and were very kind and hospitable; and it was a comfort to be in a Frank
house, but outside it was rather nervous work. A house close to our
lodging was infected by the plague, and as I was going down the street
a Greek warned me to make room for him. 'I have nothing the matter with
me,' said he, 'but a few days ago my brother died of the plague.' Need I
say that I complied at once. The panic that grows in a plague-stricken
city, and which one cannot help imbibing, has a strange effect on
characters. The woman of the neighbouring house, which, as I said, was
_impestata_, was seen going about out of doors by my host the doctor,
and he was beside himself at the sight.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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