Travels in Southern Europe and the Levant, 1810-1817: The Journal of C. R. Cockerell, R.A.Cockerell, C. R. (Charles Robert)
History
Travels in Southern Europe and the Levant, 1810-1817: The Journal of C. R. Cockerell, R.A.
Cockerell, C. R. (Charles Robert)
Cockerell, C. R. (Charles Robert), 1788-1863; Europe -- Description and travel; Middle East -- Description and travel
I rode from Aisaluck to Scala Nuova, which is only four hours off, and
from thence I took a passage for Samos on a Maltese brig of twelve hands
and six guns and set sail the following morning (March 25th); but when
we had made half the passage, which is by rights only about two hours,
we met a furious wind which obliged us to put back. I went ashore again,
and as the wind rose to the force of a hurricane I watched out of my
window no less than eighteen boats and vessels of various sizes blown
ashore and wrecked under my very eyes. It was a scene of incredible
destruction. The shore was strewn with wreckage and cargoes which had
been thrown overboard--oranges, corn, barrels of all sorts of
goods--while the sailors, ruined, although thankful to have escaped with
their lives, sat round fires in some sheds by the port, the pictures of
dejection.
The wind detained me till the 28th, when I crossed over in a boat to
Bathi in Samos. Here I had to wait first for horses, and then on account
of the bad weather. I had to stay indoors, and indoors in a Greek house
means anything but privacy. No matter where you sit, you hear everything
that goes on in it. Application of any kind is out of the question. In
this case, the consular court being at the other end of the house, I had
to hear the cases proceeding in it. One in especial went on in detached
chapters all the time I was there. A Zantiote had deserted his wife and
children eighteen years ago in Mykoni. He had since lived and been
married in Cyprus, while the deserted wife went to Smyrna and maintained
herself and the children by hard work. She had done what she could to
find her husband, in vain, till just as I arrived she discovered him in
Samos. She haled him before the consul and demanded that he, being rich,
should support her. Not till the whole assembly had joined the bench in
calling him every name they could invent would he consent, but finally
he signed an agreement to live with his wife in Samos and support the
daughter. But this was but the beginning. Every day we had visits from
both parties to complain that the conditions were not adhered to: he to
say that the agreement to live with them did not involve supporting
them; they to say they must be supported, and meanwhile, as they were
half starved, to take an opportunity of satisfying their appetites at
the consulate.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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