Travels in Southern Europe and the Levant, 1810-1817: The Journal of C. R. Cockerell, R.A.Cockerell, C. R. (Charles Robert)
History
Travels in Southern Europe and the Levant, 1810-1817: The Journal of C. R. Cockerell, R.A.
Cockerell, C. R. (Charles Robert)
Cockerell, C. R. (Charles Robert), 1788-1863; Europe -- Description and travel; Middle East -- Description and travel
I made acquaintance of a pleasant Russian, Monsieur Marschall, and with
him crossed the island to see the antiquities--first of the ancient city
and then of the Temple of Juno, lying three-quarters of an hour to the
eastward of it. There is only one column of it remaining, but that one
very finely cut and of beautiful marble. A few years ago, I understand,
there were still many standing; but some were blown up for the sake of
the metal rivets, and others knocked over by the Turkish men of war,
who, as they were very white, used them as a target for gunnery
practice. We returned to the village of Samos for the night, and lodged
with the bishop, who was more hospitable than Greeks generally are. He
was a man of some ingenuity and amusing, but very ignorant and
superstitious.
We went by Bathi to Geronta and across the Bogas to Changlu on the
mainland--rode to Kelibesh over the top of range of hills commanding the
valley of the Meander--and the lake of Myus--and on to Sansun Kalesi
(Priene), which I was very glad to see. It is an exceedingly fine site.
Unfortunately it rained and blew so violently that I could not do much;
but if one could stay and dig in the temple, I dare say one might find a
treasure of statues, for it remains exactly as it fell.
Two days after, we set out, riding along the foot of Mount Titanus, in
frequent danger of being bogged in the low new-made ground of the
Meander, which near the sea is covered with sedge and rushes inhabited
by numberless waterfowl. The scenery was often very fine. We reached the
corn warehouses at Canna after midday, and found there my Sardinian
corn-merchant friend from Guzul Hissar. He was trying to make up a
cargo, and at the moment was full of the wrongs suffered by merchants in
this country. A caravan of fifteen camels he was expecting had been
stopped by an aga, the corn they carried unloaded and left by the road,
while the camels were sent away to carry cotton into the interior.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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