Travels in Southern Europe and the Levant, 1810-1817: The Journal of C. R. Cockerell, R.A.Cockerell, C. R. (Charles Robert)
History
Travels in Southern Europe and the Levant, 1810-1817: The Journal of C. R. Cockerell, R.A.
Cockerell, C. R. (Charles Robert)
Cockerell, C. R. (Charles Robert), 1788-1863; Europe -- Description and travel; Middle East -- Description and travel
I went on with Dimitri and the captain to see some remains of which he
told me, at no great distance, but the other Greeks were afraid to
accompany me or even to show me the way. However, I found the ruins--a
theatre in astonishing preservation, and some highly interesting tombs,
and was quietly taking measurements of them when several Turks appeared.
They seemed highly to disapprove of our operations. While examining
some statues I heard one of them exclaim: 'If the infidels are attracted
here by these blasphemous figures the temptation shall soon cease, for
when that dog is gone I will destroy them.' Then some of them went away
and presently came back with a larger party. While I was above in the
upper part of the building, they suddenly seized the arms of Dimitri and
the captain, and ordered us to follow them to the aga, who lived at a
distance of no less than six hours off. At this I remonstrated, saying
that I was an Englishman, a friend; but they answered that I lied, that
we were giaour Russians, and were plotting to take possession of the
place. They wanted to examine our things, but this I resisted. My firman
unfortunately was left behind in the boat, and matters began to look
ugly. The least encouragement from the elder members would have led the
crowd of ruffians to take strong measures. I could perceive that, but I
saw no exit from our dilemma. There was, fortunately, still one elder of
the village to be consulted, and he was ill at home. The chief of our
captors went off to consult him, and a quarter of an hour later returned
a different man, his rage assuaged, and willing to accept the captain's
assurance that I was an Englishman. He then returned me my arms and
begged that I would go where I thought proper. Of course I was very much
pleased at this _dénouemeut_, but I kept my countenance and pretended to
be still very angry, at which the leader, who was now afraid of me,
positively quailed for fear of my vengeance. We slept the night under
protection of St. Nicolas.
Accompanied by the papas, we took a boat on the river and rowed down to
the port at the mouth, and across the bay to the port where our bark
lay. While I was swimming, following the boat, I was not a little
frightened to meet a large snake which was making for the land. I got
out of its way hastily and called to the boys in the caique, who killed
it as it approached the shore. It was black, with some red spots on the
belly, and measured five feet two inches in length. We heaved anchor at
night, and in the morning reached the port of Finica.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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