Travels in Southern Europe and the Levant, 1810-1817: The Journal of C. R. Cockerell, R.A.Cockerell, C. R. (Charles Robert)
History
Travels in Southern Europe and the Levant, 1810-1817: The Journal of C. R. Cockerell, R.A.
Cockerell, C. R. (Charles Robert)
Cockerell, C. R. (Charles Robert), 1788-1863; Europe -- Description and travel; Middle East -- Description and travel
We sailed off at midday, and got to the small port of Cacava in the
evening. There, among the modern houses, are a number of tombs, all of
them respected and well preserved. As the cross is on most of them, the
town must have flourished during the Lower Empire. I found and copied
various inscriptions, some of them in a character I have not seen
before. In the evening we crossed to Myra, and there I enjoyed a good
bathe. Then when night had come on, we worked the oars against wind till
we reached a port at the east end of Karadah, and when it was morning
crossed to visit the shrine of St. Nicolas. The sea was so high we had
to leave the caique and walk thither. St. Nicolas is a favourite saint
of the Greeks, and his shrine is greatly revered. Our captain and crew
were all dressed in their very best to make their cross, and had brought
with them a bottle of oil as an offering. The road was wretched, and
what made it worse was that in wading across a river which was over my
knees I so wetted my shalvar that they were heavy to walk in. At the
mouth of the river Zanthus we found many tombs, but none of which I
could read the inscription.
The holy place consists of half of a ruined church of the Lower Empire,
and by the side of it a small chapel in which is the tomb. The entrance
to it is so low that we were obliged to go down on our hands and knees
to get in. The Greeks knelt down, bowed their foreheads to the earth,
made crosses and said prayers; then, putting some parahs on a tray, took
some small candles from a bundle beside it, and stuck them round the
tomb. The ceremony being over, we took some earth from near the tomb to
keep as a relic, and fell into conversation with the papa of the shrine,
Nicola by name, native of Salonica. He told us that early in life in a
severe illness he had vowed service to St. Nicolas for the rest of his
life if he recovered: that, being restored to health, he had come here
in fulfilment of his vow, but that he led but a miserable life, in
constant apprehension of the Turks, who are very violent and fanatical
hereabouts.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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