Travels in Southern Europe and the Levant, 1810-1817: The Journal of C. R. Cockerell, R.A.Cockerell, C. R. (Charles Robert)
History
Travels in Southern Europe and the Levant, 1810-1817: The Journal of C. R. Cockerell, R.A.
Cockerell, C. R. (Charles Robert)
Cockerell, C. R. (Charles Robert), 1788-1863; Europe -- Description and travel; Middle East -- Description and travel
"On the 1st of May we reached Adalia (or Satalia). It stands on a plain
which breaks abruptly into the sea and looks very rich and Oriental from
a distance. Considering the way Captain Beaufort had given protection to
certain fugitive rebels last year, he was rather uncertain what sort of
reception to expect. It turned out to be a very cordial one, for the old
pasha having just died and his son not yet firmly set in place, he could
not deal with the high hand as Turks like to do. He expressed himself as
pleased at the captain's offer to salute the fortress, but begged the
guns might not be more than eleven, probably because he had only eleven
guns to answer with. It was clear, however, that the appearance of the
vessel had excited no small apprehension in the town. No Turks came to
look at her, as usually happens in a port, and we could see that the few
miserable guns in the fort had been trained to bear upon us. At the
same time a handsome present was sent to the ship, consisting of
bullocks, goats, fowls, vegetables, and a very magnificent dress for the
captain. The dress was refused, but the eatables were accepted and a
suitable return made. This included English ale and porter, and a big
barrel of gunpowder, which, slung on a pole carried by two seamen,
looked imposing. The captain and his boat's crew and guard of marines,
all in their best, and my humble self then landed and went up to pay a
visit of ceremony to the pasha. Captain Beaufort in the course of the
interview very kindly asked, on my behalf, leave for the captain of my
caique--which had come on to Adalia with us--to load his boat with
flour, a profitable cargo which would indemnify him for being discharged
by me. The export of flour is really contraband, but as there is an
immense trade quite openly carried on in it by Greek ships, they need
not have made such a great favour of it as they did. However, they gave
permission, and I was indignant that my late captain never came and
thanked me. During our stay we rode one day through the town and out
into the country beyond, which is very rich and well cultivated. There
are two interesting gates to the town--one on the land side, of Roman
architecture, very rich and much injured, and the other towards the sea,
of Frankish work, with mutilated arms and inscriptions on it.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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