Travels in Southern Europe and the Levant, 1810-1817: The Journal of C. R. Cockerell, R.A.Cockerell, C. R. (Charles Robert)
History
Travels in Southern Europe and the Levant, 1810-1817: The Journal of C. R. Cockerell, R.A.
Cockerell, C. R. (Charles Robert)
Cockerell, C. R. (Charles Robert), 1788-1863; Europe -- Description and travel; Middle East -- Description and travel
We set sail on the 7th, without doubt to the great relief of the people
of Adalia, and cast anchor again at Lara. Here there are considerable
ruins, but none of them very interesting. Our next stoppage was at Eshi
Satalia, the ancient Sidé, where we remained four days. The Roman
theatre is of vast dimensions and in good preservation, and it is
noticeable that, as is evident from marks of crosses on the stones, it
had been repaired in Christian times, which shows that theatres were
still used after the conversion of the inhabitants to Christianity. The
proscenium was in ruins, as usual, and some of its sculptures lay in the
arena. In comparatively modern times it had been utilised to form part
of the city wall, but the theatre itself was in wonderful preservation.
Sidé is now absolutely desolate, probably because the aqueduct which
supplied the ancient city is broken, and there is no water whatever on
the site. This accounts for the theatre being so well preserved.
I spent all my time among these lonely ruins to very good purpose,
drawing and studying. The architecture is some of it even absurd: for
instance, the triumphal façade at the entrance; but the sculpture is all
far superior to the architecture. Although not in the very best style,
it is exceedingly good, and cut with astonishing freedom and boldness.
As I said, the site of Sidé, and even the neighbourhood, is absolutely
deserted. Nevertheless, news of our being on the coast had got about,
and a Turkish dignitary came down from the interior, ostensibly to offer
us civilities, but in reality to watch our proceedings. He was invited
on board, but refused, saying, with a great assumption of dignity, that
he had ridden an hour to the coast to visit the captain, and now the
captain should come to him. The real fact was he was afraid. The captain
accordingly came in the jolly-boat, the crew of which was in charge of a
midshipman who charmed the Turk so much that he wanted to buy him, and
made an offer of 2,000 piastres for him.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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