Travels in Syria and the Holy LandBurckhardt, John Lewis
History
Travels in Syria and the Holy Land
Burckhardt, John Lewis
Palestine -- Description and travel; Syria -- Description and travel
At Om Keis the remains of antiquity are very mutilated. The ancient town
was situated round a hill, which is the highest point in the
neighbourhood. To the east of the hill are a great number of caverns in
the calcareous rock, some of which have been enlarged and rendered
habitable. Others have been used as sepulchral caves. Great numbers of
sarcophagi are lying about in this direction: they are all of black
stone, which must have been transported from the banks of the river
below: the dimensions of the largest are nine spans in length by three
in breadth; they are ornamented with bas-reliefs of genii, festoons,
wreaths of flowers, and some with busts, but very few of them are of
elegant wor[k]manship. I counted upwards of seventy on the declivity of
the hill. On the summit of the hill are heaps of wrought stones, but no
remains of any important building: on its west and north sides are the
remains of two large theatres, built entirely of black stone. That on
the W. side is in better preservation than the other, although more
ruined than the theatres at Djerash. The walls and the greater part of
the seats yet remain; a tier of boxes intervenes between the rows of
seats, as at Djerash, and there are deep vaulted apartments beneath the
seats. There are no remains of columns in front of either theatre. The
theatre on the north side of the hill, which is in a very dilapidated
state, is remarkable for its great depth,
[p.272]caused by its being built on a part of the steepest declivity of
the hill; its uppermost row of seats is at least forty feet higher than
the lowest; the area below the seats is comparatively very small. From
these two theatres the principal part of the town appears to have
extended westwards, over an even piece of ground at the foot of the
hill; its length from the hill was at least half an hour. Nothing is at
present standing; but there are immense heaps of cut stones, columns,
&c. dispersed over the plain. A long street, running westward, of which
the ancient pavement still exists in most parts, seems to have been the
principal street of the town. On both sides there are vast quantities of
shafts of columns. At a spot where a heap of large Corinthian pillars
lay, a temple appears to have stood. I here saw the base of a large
column of gray granite. The town terminates in a narrow point, where a
large solid building with many columns seems to have stood.
With the exception of the theatres, the buildings of the city were all
constructed of the calcareous stone which constitutes the rock of every
part of the country which I saw between Wady Zerka
SHERIAT EL MANDHOUR.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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