Travels in Syria and the Holy LandBurckhardt, John Lewis
History
Travels in Syria and the Holy Land
Burckhardt, John Lewis
Palestine -- Description and travel; Syria -- Description and travel
[p.330] which has thus been appropriated to bathing, is the largest of
four hot sources; the volume of its water is very considerable, and
would be sufficient to turn a mill. Continuing along the shore for about
two hundred paces, the three other hot-springs are met with, or four, if
we count separately two small ones close together. The most southern
spring seems to be the hottest of all; the hand cannot be held in it.
The water deposits upon the stones over which it flows in its way
towards the sea, a thick crust, but the colour of the deposit is not the
same from all the springs; in some it is white, in the others it is of a
red yellowish hue, a circumstance which seems to indicate that the
nature of the water is not the same in all the sources. There are no
remains whatever of ancient buildings near the hottest spring.
People from all parts of Syria resort to these baths, which are reckoned
most efficacious in July; they are recommended principally for rheumatic
complaints, and cases of premature debility. Two patients only were
present when I visited them. Some public women of Damascus, who were
kept by the garrison of Tabaria, had established themselves in the
ruined vaults and caverns near the baths.
In the fourteenth century, according to the testimony of the Arabian
geographers, the tomb of Lokman the philosopher was shewn at Tiberias.
Not having been immediately able to find a guide to accompany me along
the valley of the Jordan, I visited a fortress in the mountain near
Medjdel,[See page 320.] of which I had heard much at Tabaria. It is
called Kalaat Ibn Maan (Arabic), the castle of the son of Maan, or
Kalaat Hamam (Arabic), the Pigeons castle, on account of the vast
quantity of wild pigeons that breed there. It is situated half
KALAAT HAMAM
[p.331] An hour to the west of Medjdel, on the cliff which borders the
Wady Hamam. In the calcareous mountain are many natural caverns, which
have been united together by passages cut in the rock, and enlarged, in
order to render them more commodious for habitation; walls have also
been built across the natural openings, so that no person could enter
them except through the narrow communicating passages; and wherever the
nature of the almost perpendicular cliff permitted it, small bastions
were built, to defend the entrance of the castle, which has been thus
rendered almost impregnable. The perpendicular cliff forms its
protection above, and the access from below is by a narrow path, so
steep as not to allow of a horse mounting it. In the midst of the
caverns several deep cisterns have been hewn. The whole might afford
refuge to about six hundred men; but the walls are now much damaged. The
place was probably the work of some powerful robber, about the time of
the Crusades; a few vaults of communication, with pointed arches, denote
Gothic architecture. Below in the valley runs a small rivulet, which
empties itself into the Wady Lymoun. Here the peasants of Medjdel
cultivate some gardens.
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