Travels in Syria and the Holy LandBurckhardt, John Lewis
History
Travels in Syria and the Holy Land
Burckhardt, John Lewis
Palestine -- Description and travel; Syria -- Description and travel
In returning from the Kalaat Hamam I was several times reprimanded by my
guide, for not taking proper care of the lighted tobacco that fell from
my pipe. The whole of the mountain is thickly covered with dry grass,
which readily takes fire, and the slightest breath of air instantly
spreads the conflagration far over the country, to the great risk of the
peasants harvest. The Arabs who inhabit the valley of the Jordan
invariably put to death any person who is known to have been even the
innocent cause of firing the grass, and they have made it a public law
among themselves, that even in the height of intestine warfare, no one
shall attempt to set his enemys harvest on fire. One evening, while at
Tabaria, I saw a large fire on the opposite side of the lake, which
LAKE OF TIBERIAS
[p.332] spread with great velocity for two days, till its progress was
checked by the Wady Feik.
The water of the lake of Tiberias along its shores from Medjdel to the
hot-wells, is of considerable depth, with no shallows. I was told that
the water rises during the rainy season, three or four feet above its
ordinary level, which seems not at all improbable, considering the great
number of winter torrents which empty themselves into the lake. The
northern part is full of fish, but I did not see a single one at
Szammagh at the southern extremity.[See p. 276] The most common species
are the Binni, or carp, and the Mesht (Arabic), which is about a foot
long, and five inches broad, with a flat body, like the sole. The
fishery of the lake is rented at seven hundred piastres per annum: but
the only boat that was employed on it by the fishermen fell to pieces
last year, and such is the indolence of these people, that they have not
yet supplied its loss. The lake furnishes the inhabitants of Tiberias
with water, there being no spring of sweet water near the town. Several
houses have salt wells.
June 26th.I took a guide to Mount Tabor. The whole of this country,
even to the gates of Damascus, is in a state of insecurity, which
renders it very imprudent to travel alone. Merchants go only in large
caravans. We ascended the mountain to the west of the town, and in
thirty-five minutes passed the ruined vil[lage] of Szermedein (Arabic),
on the declivity of the mountain, where is a fine spring, and the tomb
of a celebrated saint. The people of Tabaria here cultivate Dhourra,
melons, and tobacco. At the end of one hour we reached the top of the
steep mountain, from whence Mount Tabor, or Djebel Tor (Arabic), as the
natives call it, bears S.W. by S. From hence the road continues on a
gentle
MOUNT TABOR
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