Travels in Tartary, Thibet, and China During the years 1844-5-6. Volume 2Huc, Evariste Régis
General
Travels in Tartary, Thibet, and China During the years 1844-5-6. Volume 2
Huc, Evariste Régis
Asia, Central -- Description and travel; China -- Description and travel; Tibet Autonomous Region (China) -- Description and travel
The Kolo, who had remained outside the camp, upon seeing their chief
fraternize with the chief of the caravan, dismounted, fastened their
horses to each other, two and two, by the bridles, and came to drink a
friendly cup of tea with the travellers, who now, at length, began to
breathe freely. All these brigands were extremely affable, and they
asked us various questions about the Tartar-Khalkhas, whom, they said,
they were particularly anxious to see, by reason that, in the preceding
year, these warriors had killed three of their companions, whom they were
eager to avenge. We had a little chat about politics too. The brigands
affirmed that they were warm friends of the Talé-Lama, and irreconcilable
enemies to the Emperor of China; on which account they seldom failed to
pillage the embassy on its way to Peking, because the Emperor was
unworthy to receive gifts from the Talé-Lama, but that they ordinarily
respected it on its return, because it was altogether fitting that the
Emperor should send gifts to the Talé-Lama. After having done honour to
the tea and tsamba of the caravan, the brigands wished us a good journey,
and returned to their own encampment. All these fraternal manifestations
did not prevent our sleeping with one eye open; our repose, however, was
not disturbed, and in the morning we resumed our way in peace. Of the
many thousands of pilgrims who have performed the journey to Lha-Ssa,
there are very few who can boast of having had so close a view of the
robbers, at so small a cost.
We had escaped one great danger; but another awaited us, we were
informed, far more formidable in its character, though different in kind.
We were beginning to ascend the vast chain of the Tant-La mountains; on
the plateau of which, our travelling companions assured us, the invalids
would die, and those who were now well would become invalids, with but a
small chance of living. The death of M. Gabet was considered quite a
matter of certainty. After six days laborious ascent of several
mountains, placed amphitheatrically, one above another, we at length
reached the famous plateau, the most elevated point, perhaps, on the
earth’s surface. The snow there appeared an incrustation, an ordinary
portion of the soil. It cracked beneath our feet, but the feet left
scarcely any impression upon it. The entire vegetation consisted of an
occasional tuft of a low, sharp-pointed, smooth grass, ligneous within,
and as hard as iron, but not brittle; so that it might very well be
converted into mattress needles. The animals were, however, so
famishing, that they were fain to attack even this atrocious forage,
which absolutely cracked between their teeth, and could be realized at
all only by vigorous efforts and at the cost of infinite lip bleeding.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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