Travels in Tartary, Thibet, and China During the years 1844-5-6. Volume 2Huc, Evariste Régis
General
Travels in Tartary, Thibet, and China During the years 1844-5-6. Volume 2
Huc, Evariste Régis
Asia, Central -- Description and travel; China -- Description and travel; Tibet Autonomous Region (China) -- Description and travel
From the brow of this magnificent plateau, we could see below us the
peaks and needles of numerous ridges, the ramifications of which were
lost in the horizon. We had never witnessed anything at all comparable
with this grand, this gigantic spectacle. During the twelve days that we
were journeying along the heights of Tant-La, we enjoyed fine weather;
the air was calm, and it pleased God to bless us each day with a warm,
genial sunshine, that materially modified the ordinary coldness of the
atmosphere. Still the air, excessively rarified at that enormous
altitude, was very piercing, and monstrous eagles, which followed the
track of the caravan, were daily provided with a number of dead bodies.
The small caravan of the French mission itself paid its tribute to death;
but, happily, that tribute was only in the shape of our little black
mule, which we abandoned at once with regret and with resignation. The
dismal prophecy that had been announced with reference to M. Gabet was
falsified. The mountains, which were to have been fatal to him, proved,
on the contrary, highly favourable, restoring to him, by degrees, health
and strength. This blessing, almost unexpected by us, even at the hands
of the God of Mercy, made us forget all our past miseries. We resumed
all our courage, and firmly entertained the hope that the Almighty would
permit us to accomplish our journey.
The descent of Tant-La, though long in duration, was rapid in itself.
Throughout four whole days, we were going down, as it seemed, a gigantic
staircase, each step of which consisted of a mountain. At the bottom, we
found some hot springs, of an extremely magnificent description. Amongst
huge rocks, you see a great number of reservoirs, hollowed out by the
hand of nature, in which the water boils and bubbles, as in a vast
cauldron over a fierce fire. Sometimes the active fluid escapes through
the fissures of the rocks, and leaps, in all directions, by a thousand
capricious jets. Every now and then the ebullition, in particular
reservoirs, grows so furious, that tall columns of water rise into the
air, as though impelled by some tremendous pumping machinery. Above
these springs, thick vapours, collecting in the air, condense into white
clouds. The water is sulphureous. After bubbling and dashing about in
its huge granite reservoirs, it boils over, and quitting the rocks, which
had seemed to wish to keep it captive, pours down by various currents
into a small valley below, where it forms a large stream flowing over a
bed of flints, yellow as gold. These boiling waters do not long preserve
their fluidity. The extreme rigour of the atmosphere cools them so
rapidly, that within a mile and a half from its source, the stream they
have thus formed is almost frozen through. These hot springs are of
frequent occurrence in the mountains of Thibet, and the Lama physicians,
who attribute to them considerable medicinal virtue, constantly prescribe
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