Travels in Tartary, Thibet, and China During the years 1844-5-6. Volume 2Huc, Evariste Régis
General
Travels in Tartary, Thibet, and China During the years 1844-5-6. Volume 2
Huc, Evariste Régis
Asia, Central -- Description and travel; China -- Description and travel; Tibet Autonomous Region (China) -- Description and travel
their use, both internally and externally.
From the Tant-La mountains to Lha-Ssa, the ground constantly declines.
As you descend, the intensity of the cold diminishes, and the earth
becomes clothed with more vigorous and more varied vegetation. One
evening, we encamped in a large plain, where the pasturage was
marvellously abundant, and as our cattle had been for some time past on
very short commons indeed, we determined to give them the full benefit of
the present opportunity, and to remain where we were for two days.
Next morning, as we were quietly preparing our tea, we perceived in the
distance a troop of horsemen galloping towards our encampment at full
speed. The sight seemed to freeze the very blood in our veins; we stood
for a moment perfectly petrified. After the first moment of stupor, we
rushed out of our tent, and ran to Rala-Tchembé. “The Kolo! the Kolo!”
cried we; “here’s a great body of Kolo advancing against us.” The
Thibetian merchants, who were boiling their tea and mixing their tsamba,
laughed at our alarm, and told us to sit down quite at our ease. “Take
breakfast with us,” said they; “there are no Kolo to fear here; the
horsemen you see yonder are friends. We are now entering upon an
inhabited country; behind the hill there, to the right, are a number of
black tents, and the horsemen, whom you take to be Kolo, are shepherds.”
These words restored our equanimity, and with our equanimity returned our
appetite, so that we were very happy to accept the invitation to
breakfast with which we had been favoured. We had scarcely taken up a
cup of buttered tea before the horsemen made their appearance at the door
of the tent. So far from being brigands, they were worthy fellows who
came to sell us butter and fresh meat; their saddles were regular
butchers’ stalls hung with joints of mutton and venison, which rested on
the sides of their horses. We purchased eight legs of mutton, which,
being frozen, were easily susceptible of transport. They cost us an old
pair of Peking boots, a Peking steel, and the saddle of our defunct mule,
which luckily could also boast of Peking origin. Everything coming from
Peking is highly prized by the Thibetians, more especially by that
portion of the population which has not advanced beyond the pastoral and
nomadic life. The merchants who accompany the caravan take care,
accordingly, to label every package “Goods from Peking.” Snuff is
especially an object of earnest competition among the Thibetians. All
the shepherds asked us whether we had not snuff from Peking. M. Huc, who
was the only snuff-taker of our party, had formerly possessed a quantity
of the precious commodity, but it had all departed, and for the last
eight days he had been reduced to the necessity of filling his snuff-box
and his nose with a frightful mixture of dust and ashes. Those who are
devotees of snuff, will at once comprehend all the horrors to poor M. Huc
of this deplorable position.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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