Travels in Tartary, Thibet, and China During the years 1844-5-6. Volume 2Huc, Evariste Régis
General
Travels in Tartary, Thibet, and China During the years 1844-5-6. Volume 2
Huc, Evariste Régis
Asia, Central -- Description and travel; China -- Description and travel; Tibet Autonomous Region (China) -- Description and travel
To cut short the various chatter circulated about us, we resolved to
conform to a regulation in force at Lha-Ssa, and which commands all
strangers, who are desirous of staying in the town, to present themselves
to the authorities. We went accordingly to the chief of police, and
declared to him that we belonged to the Western Heaven, to a great
kingdom called France, and that we had come to Thibet to preach the
Christian religion, of which we were the ministers. The person to whom
we made this declaration was cold and impenetrable as became a
bureaucrat. He phlegmatically drew his bamboo quill from behind his ear,
and began to write, without the slightest observation, what we had told
him. He contented himself with repeating twice or thrice, between his
teeth, the words “France,” and “Christian religion,” like a man who does
not know what you mean. When he had done writing, he wiped his pen,
still wet with ink, in his hair, and replaced it behind his right ear,
saying, “Yak poze” (very well); “Temou chu” (dwell in peace), we replied,
and putting out our tongues at him, we left him, delighted at having
placed ourselves on a proper footing with the police. We then walked
about the streets of Lha-Ssa with a firmer and more assured step, and
regardless of the remarks that continually assailed our ears. The lawful
position we had established raised us in our own eyes, and restored our
courage. What a happiness at length to find ourselves in a hospitable
land, and to be able to breathe a free air, after living so long in
China; always in constraint, always outside the law, always occupied with
plans for tricking the government of his Imperial Majesty.
The sort of indifference with which our declaration was received by the
Thibetian authorities did not surprise us in the least. From the
information we had received of the position of strangers at Lha-Ssa, we
were convinced we should have no difficulty in the matter. The
Thibetians do not profess, in regard to other people, those principles of
exclusion which constitute the distinctive character of the Chinese
nation. Everyone is allowed to enter Lha-Ssa; everyone can go and come,
and engage in commerce and industrial pursuits without the least
restraint. If entrance into Thibet is forbidden to the Chinese, this
prohibition must be attributed to the government of Peking, which, to
show its complete adherence to its narrow and suspicious policy, forbids
its subjects to penetrate among other nations. It is probable that the
English would not be excluded more than any other nation, had not their
invasive march into Hindostan inspired the Talé-Lama with a natural
terror.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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