Travels in the Central Parts of Indo-China (Siam), Cambodia, and Laos (Vol. 1 of 2): During the Years 1858, 1859, and 1860Mouhot, Henri
History
Travels in the Central Parts of Indo-China (Siam), Cambodia, and Laos (Vol. 1 of 2): During the Years 1858, 1859, and 1860
Mouhot, Henri
Cambodia -- Description and travel; Khmer language; Natural history -- Indochina; Thailand -- Description and travel
For some time past, particularly since the wars in China and
Cochin-China, Siam has been much talked of in Europe; and, relying on
the faith of treaties of peace and commerce, several French and English
houses of business have been established there. Unfortunately, there
was much deception on the part of the native authorities, which has
given rise to general and well-founded complaints from the merchants.
The fact is, that they have dangerous competitors in the mandarins and
even in the princes, who monopolise the greater part of the trade in
rice and sugar, their chief articles of commerce, which they despatch
in their junks and other vessels. Moreover, the people were not
prepared for the change which had taken place in the laws, and had
scarcely cultivated more than enough for home consumption; add to
this that the population is far from numerous, and, the Siamese being
an indolent race, most of the agriculture falls into the hands of the
Chinese, who flock to Singapore, Australia, and California.
The country certainly merits the reputation which it enjoys for beauty,
but it is especially in its mountain scenery that nature displays its
grandeur.
During a ten years’ residence in Russia I witnessed the frightful
effects of despotism and slavery. At Siam, results not less sad and
deplorable obtruded themselves on my notice; every inferior crouches
before a higher in rank; he receives his orders kneeling, or with some
other sign of abject submission and respect. The whole of society is in
a state of prostration.
PRESENTED TO THE KING OF SIAM.
I was making my preparations for departure on the 16th October, my
purpose being to penetrate into the north of the country and visit
Cambodia and the savage tribes belonging to it, when I received an
invitation from the King of Siam to be present at the great dinner
which this monarch gives every year, on his birthday, to the European
residents in Bangkok. I was presented by Monseigneur Pallegoix, and his
Majesty’s reception was kind and courteous. His costume consisted of a
pair of large trousers, a short brown jacket of some thin material, and
slippers; on his head he wore a little copper helmet like those worn by
the naval officers, and at his side a rich sabre.
Most of the Europeans in Bangkok were present at the dinner, and
enthusiastic toasts were drunk to the health of his Majesty, who,
instead of being seated, stood or walked round the table, chewing
betel and addressing some pleasant observation to each of his guests
in turn. The repast was served in a vast hall, from whence we could
see a platoon of the royal guard, with flags and drums, drawn up in
the courtyard. When I went to take leave of the King, he graciously
presented me with a little bag of green silk, containing some of
the gold and silver coin of the country,--a courtesy which was most
unexpected, and for which I expressed my gratitude.
KING SOMDEL PHRA.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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