Holland has also renewed her ancient dealings with the country, and ratified a treaty during the present year (1862). Even before the arrival of the Siamese ambassadors in Europe, a French publication[7] said very justly, “The Government of Siam is showing itself more and more favourable towards Europeans, who find at Bangkok not only protection, but sympathy and toleration for their religion. Bangkok has become one of the most considerable markets of Asia; and the kingdom of Siam is reaping the reward of the liberal politics which it has introduced into the extreme East, and which is warmly seconded by France, England, and the United States.” [7] ‘L’Annuaire des Deux Mondes.’ 1858-1859. CHAPTER III. VOYAGE UP THE MENAM TO AYUTHIA THE ANCIENT CAPITAL--THE RUINS--EXCURSION TO MOUNT PHRABAT--ITS TEMPLE--ITS SACRED AND GEOLOGICAL FOOTSTEPS--SARABURI AND PATAVI. After my visits of ceremony to the two kings, I hastened to finish the preparations for my voyage. I bought a light boat capable of holding all my chests, reserving a narrow space for myself, and another for the bipeds and quadrupeds forming my adopted family--viz., two rowers, one of whom also officiated as cook, a parroquet, an ape, and a dog. One of the boatmen was a Cambodian, and the other an Annamite, both Christians, and knowing a few words of Latin[8] and English, so that, as I had already picked up a little Siamese, I could make myself pretty well understood. [8] Latin is much esteemed among the native Christians, thanks to the ritual of the Catholic mission. VOYAGE UP THE MENAM. On the 19th October I quitted Bangkok, and commenced my voyage up the Menam. The current runs very strongly at this season, and it took us five days to go about seventy miles. At night we suffered terribly from the mosquitoes, and even during the day had to keep up an incessant fanning to drive off these pestilent little vampires. They were so numerous that you could catch them by handfuls, and their humming resembled that of a hive of bees. These insects are the curse of all tropical countries, but here they peculiarly abound in the marshes and lands covered with slime and mud left by the retiring waters, where the heat of the sun and the moisture combined, favour their rapid increase. My legs suffered especially from their attacks. [Illustration: Drawn by M. Sabatier, from a Sketch by M. Mouhot. THE INUNDATION OF THE MENAM.] As the country was entirely inundated, we could not land anywhere, and even after killing a bird I frequently could not get at it. All this was very tantalising, for the banks of the stream are very gay and attractive, nature wearing here her richest dress.