Travels in the Central Parts of Indo-China (Siam), Cambodia, and Laos (Vol. 2 of 2): During the Years 1858, 1859, and 1860Mouhot, Henri
History
Travels in the Central Parts of Indo-China (Siam), Cambodia, and Laos (Vol. 2 of 2): During the Years 1858, 1859, and 1860
Mouhot, Henri
Cambodia -- Description and travel; Khmer language; Natural history -- Indochina; Thailand -- Description and travel
On the 21st July, after having descended the great arm of the Mekon
from Pinhalú, a village about nine miles from the capital, and in
lat. 11° 46′ 30″ N. and long. 103° 3 W. merid. of Paris, as far as
Penom Peuh, a commercial town filled with Chinese, and situated at
the conflux of two streams, I ascended the great Cambodian River,
the water of which is still low, as all through the country the rainy
season is two months later than usual. The Mekon is studded with
islands, of which many are eight or nine miles long and more than a
mile broad; such is the large and beautiful island of Ko-Sutin, where I
arrived after five days’ journey. I estimate the width of the river to
be about three miles. Pelicans are found on its waters, often in flocks
of more than fifty, and storks, sea swallows, and other aquatic birds,
abound in the shallow parts of the river. The general aspect of this
mighty river is, however, rather sombre than gay, although doubtless
there is something imposing in the rapidity of its waters, which run
like a torrent. Few boats are to be seen on it, and its banks are
almost barren (the forests being more than a mile distant), and, being
constantly undermined by the water, fall down at the least shock, and
this is generally all that you can see or hear. The Menam is much more
gay and animated.
The rapids and cataracts commence about thirty or forty leagues north
of Ko-Sutin, on the confines of Laos, and it is there necessary to
leave the large boats and take to canoes, which as well as the luggage
are often obliged to be carried on men’s backs.
The current of the Mekon is so strong that at certain times of the
year you can go little more than a league a day, and the rowers often
seek for fire in the evening at the very place where they cooked their
rice in the morning. I ascended it in a small boat with three rowers,
but at every bend of the river we had the greatest trouble to make
any progress, and were frequently obliged to hold on by the rushes to
prevent our being carried away by the current. Eight days after leaving
Pinhalú I reached Pemptiélan, a large Cambodian village, where I found
it necessary to take to land travelling.
There still remained 150 miles to travel in carts, all in an easterly
direction. I was well received by the mandarin at the head of affairs
in this part of the country, and was able to set out again in two days.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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