Travels in the Central Parts of Indo-China (Siam), Cambodia, and Laos (Vol. 2 of 2): During the Years 1858, 1859, and 1860Mouhot, Henri
History
Travels in the Central Parts of Indo-China (Siam), Cambodia, and Laos (Vol. 2 of 2): During the Years 1858, 1859, and 1860
Mouhot, Henri
Cambodia -- Description and travel; Khmer language; Natural history -- Indochina; Thailand -- Description and travel
The first day our conveyances upset, and I feared that we should be
unable to proceed; there were continually dreadful bogs, quagmires,
and marshes, in which the carts sank up to the axletrees and the
buffaloes to their bellies. Fortunately on the following day the road
improved, but for three weeks all that was visible was a few scattered
rice-fields round the villages, and we had to make our way through a
marshy plain, covered with thick and dark woods, which reminded one
of the enchanted forest of Tasso, and it is easy to understand that
the imagination of a pagan race peoples these gloomy solitudes with
evil spirits. Twenty times in an hour the men who accompanied us were
obliged to raise the large branches and cut down the trunks which
obstructed our passage, and sometimes we had to make a new path for
ourselves.
The Cambodians were all much surprised at seeing us journeying towards
the Stiêns at the worst time of the year, for in that country the rainy
season had commenced, and even those who live nearest dare not venture
there; and had I not brought with me from Siam my two young servants,
I could not for any money have found a single individual to accompany
me. Even they felt great repugnance to proceed--for in Siam, Cambodia
bears a terrible reputation for unhealthiness, and unhappily both for
them and for myself they were attacked with fever in the forests, since
which, instead of receiving any help from them, I have had two patients
to nurse.
Passing through a village peopled by a barbarous race of Annamites,
I ran great risk of being taken prisoner by them, and being sent to
finish my researches in a dungeon. Last year the carriages belonging to
a French missionary were completely rifled, and the men sent with ropes
round their necks to Cochin China. I loaded all my guns, and gave one
to each of my men: our firm appearance, no doubt, frightened them, for
we were not attacked.
In spite of the heat, the fatigue, and privations inseparable from
such a journey, I arrived among the Stiêns in perfectly good health
as far as I was concerned, and here I found a settlement of Catholic
missionaries from Cochin China. It would have been impossible to go
further, for I could neither find means of transport nor provisions,
for at this time of the year the poor savages have consumed all their
rice, and have nothing to live upon but herbs, a little maize, and
what they can catch in the chase. I therefore accepted the hospitality
offered to me with much kindness by a good priest. In a few weeks the
rainy season will be over, the nights will become cold, and for several
months insects will be found, and after that will come the turn of the
birds, with which I shall exclusively occupy myself.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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