Travels in the Central Parts of Indo-China (Siam), Cambodia, and Laos (Vol. 2 of 2): During the Years 1858, 1859, and 1860Mouhot, Henri
History
Travels in the Central Parts of Indo-China (Siam), Cambodia, and Laos (Vol. 2 of 2): During the Years 1858, 1859, and 1860
Mouhot, Henri
Cambodia -- Description and travel; Khmer language; Natural history -- Indochina; Thailand -- Description and travel
Thanks to the Governor of Korat, who gave me an excellent letter to the
mandarins, I have travelled at little expense; without it, I should
have paid much more, and have suffered every kind of inconvenience.
Everywhere I have been furnished with elephants (as many as seven in
some provinces), an escort, guard, and plenty of provisions.
I had this morning an audience of the great body of State Mandarins,
like the House of Peers with us. Twenty of them were assembled in a
vast caravanserai, and presided over by the eldest prince. You may form
some idea of the dignity of these gentlemen by the drawing which I will
send to you.
My plan is to pass six or eight months of the good season in the
neighbouring villages, in order to complete my collection, and next
January or March I will try to go north or east, where I shall pass
a few more months amidst the Laotian tribes. Probably I shall go no
farther, for China would be a barrier to me on the north, and Cochin
China on the east. I shall then return here, and go down the Mekon in
July or August, 1862, the time when the waters are high, and shall
thus reach Korat in a few weeks. I am yet uncertain whether I shall
stop there, whether I shall explore the eastern part of the river,
or whether I shall go to Cambodia. All my movements depend upon
circumstances that may arise. I shall try to profit by all that are
favourable, and that will contribute to give interest to my journey.
Do not be anxious when you think of your poor friend the traveller, for
you know that up to the present time everything has prospered with him:
and truly I experience a degree of contentment, strength of soul, and
internal peace, which I have never known before.
[_Same Letter._]
Louang Prabang, 8th August, 1861.
No event could have caused more sensation here than the arrival of
“the long-bearded stranger.” From the humblest to the greatest--for
even here are distinctions of rank--every one looks on a “white” as a
natural curiosity, and they are not yet satisfied with looking--nothing
is talked of but the stranger. When I pass through the town in my white
dress, to go to the market or to visit the pagodas or other interesting
places, the people crowd round me, and look after me as long as they
can catch a glimpse of me. Everywhere I go complete silence reigns, and
I am treated as though I were a sovereign or prince, and the council,
by order of the king, have given to me as to them power of life or
death over his subjects. Poor people! why can I not raise you from the
abasement into which you have fallen--I am overwhelmed with presents of
all kinds in return for the slightest favour shown to these unfortunate
people. They seem to me some of the most to be pitied that I have seen;
even the women and children are opium-eaters: they might really be
called a nation of cretins.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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