Travels in the Central Parts of Indo-China (Siam), Cambodia, and Laos (Vol. 2 of 2): During the Years 1858, 1859, and 1860Mouhot, Henri
History
Travels in the Central Parts of Indo-China (Siam), Cambodia, and Laos (Vol. 2 of 2): During the Years 1858, 1859, and 1860
Mouhot, Henri
Cambodia -- Description and travel; Khmer language; Natural history -- Indochina; Thailand -- Description and travel
The heat is greater here than any I have felt; when the sun shines,
and there has been no rain for several days, I find it worse than at
Bangkok; still the nights are generally pleasant, and from the month of
December to the end of March I am told that it is really cold.
TO M. CHARLES MOUHOT.
Louang Prabang, West Laos, 27th July, 1861.
As you will have the opportunity, my dear brother, of reading my other
letters, I shall not write to you at length; but, nevertheless, I must
give you some details as to my journey to Laos, although I cannot tell
whether the crowd of curious gazers around me will permit me to write
as I would wish; if not, you must blame them and not me.
On the 10th April I wrote you from Korat, and I think you must also
have received a message which I sent to you by a good and honest
Chinese, who has been very useful to me, and from whom I have received
more help and kindness than from any other of the mandarins.
I was not then in good spirits, for I doubted whether I should be able
to accomplish the journey for which I had already suffered so many
annoyances, one of which was having to return to Korat to procure more
useful letters than those which I had taken with me on starting. At
last I obtained one from the Viceroy of Korat, which was the only one
of service to me, and which sufficed to secure me aid and protection
during my whole journey to Laos.
From Korat to Bangkok you know that I travelled in company with an
animal who has a title equal to that of the greatest Siamese mandarin,
and who was served by two inferior mandarins, who gave him his meals
composed of cakes, biscuits, and sweetmeats out of golden dishes;
and who had slaves sent before him to clear the way and cut down the
brushwood and branches, for this elephant, according to the Siamese
superstition and ignorance, possesses the soul of some deceased prince
or king. They called him a white elephant, but in reality he had only
a few spots of that colour on his body. Alas! The king and all his
mandarins are now in mourning, for the object of their worship died of
indigestion. Poor beast and poor king!
I have travelled a long way since I last wrote, and God has protected
me. I crossed the mountains and went through the most dreaded jungles
in the rainy season without losing a man, and without having suffered
myself. My travelling expenses were comparatively small to what they
might have been; everywhere I was furnished gratis with elephants,
escorts, guards, and provisions (rice and fowls), as though I were an
envoy from the king, and all this owing solely to a letter from the
Viceroy of Korat.
I have made a good collection of coleoptera, and have procured a number
of excessively rare and beautiful species. I have also obtained some
very rare and interesting conchological specimens. As for animals, I
have but few; some monkeys and a good many serpents.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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