Travels in the Central Parts of Indo-China (Siam), Cambodia, and Laos (Vol. 2 of 2): During the Years 1858, 1859, and 1860Mouhot, Henri
History
Travels in the Central Parts of Indo-China (Siam), Cambodia, and Laos (Vol. 2 of 2): During the Years 1858, 1859, and 1860
Mouhot, Henri
Cambodia -- Description and travel; Khmer language; Natural history -- Indochina; Thailand -- Description and travel
Two or three miles below Khao-Khoc I observed a kind of landing-place,
and a house of mediocre appearance, bearing the pretentious appellation
of palace, although built only of leaves and bamboo. This is Rabat
Moi. At Khao-Khoc, although the second king often visits it, there is
no landing-place, nor even steps cut in the steep banks to aid the
ascent.
Immediately after landing I set off to look for a lodging, having
been informed that I should find numerous vacant houses belonging to
mandarins, amongst which I might make my choice. My men and I hunted
amid the brushwood, often sinking up to our knees in mud, but could
discover only seven or eight Laotian huts, the inhabitants of which
form the nucleus of the population of this future stronghold, now
peaceful and hospitable agriculturists, who would be deeply afflicted,
and still more terrified, if ever their echoes should repeat the roar
of cannon and varied sounds of war. As for the royal habitations, I
could not reach them, for the whole ground, excepting a strip about
fifty feet broad next the river, is a swamp; and the narrow paths are
obstructed by bushes and tall grass, which had had time to grow during
the six or eight months that have elapsed since the King has visited
the place.
Not being able to find a lodging, some men from the village joined us,
and we all set to work to cut down bamboos, with which to construct
one, which was soon accomplished; and in this hut, open to every wind,
we took up our abode.
I was told that a white elephant had just been taken in Laos, and had
been sent off to Bangkok under the care of a mandarin.
All the inhabitants of the village, amounting perhaps to about fifty,
have brought their children to me, begging for remedies; some for
fevers, others for dysentery or rheumatism. I have not heard of any
cases of leprosy here, as at Khao-Tchioulaü, but the children are
repulsively dirty; they are covered with a coating of filth, which
makes them resemble little negroes, and the greater number of them are
shaking with fever.
The site of my hut is in a valley, formed by a belt of mountain-chains,
running from Nephaburi and Phrabat, and connected with those of the
peninsula and of Birmah. Mount Khoc is distant a kilometre from the
left bank of the river, and stretches out in the form of a semicircle,
afterwards joining the mountains which run eastward towards Korat, and
M’Lôm, and Thibet. Facing Mount Khoc, other mountains rise abruptly
from the right bank, and then extend in an easterly direction.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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