Travels in the Central Parts of Indo-China (Siam), Cambodia, and Laos (Vol. 2 of 2): During the Years 1858, 1859, and 1860Mouhot, Henri
History
Travels in the Central Parts of Indo-China (Siam), Cambodia, and Laos (Vol. 2 of 2): During the Years 1858, 1859, and 1860
Mouhot, Henri
Cambodia -- Description and travel; Khmer language; Natural history -- Indochina; Thailand -- Description and travel
On the road before mentioned are two towns containing some remarkable
buildings. These towns, each of which is enclosed by walls forming a
square, almost touch each other, being only about 20 metres apart.
The walls are of ferruginous stone, surmounted by a coping of carved
sandstone resembling a cornice, above which are serrated stones, giving
a very finished appearance to the wall.
The smallest of these towns is called Pontéey Kedey (Town of Kedey);
the other, Pontéey ta Proum.
The town of Ta Proum has seven gateways in the style of triumphal
arches, formed by a central tower at the entrance and by lateral
galleries. As at Ongcor the Great, a deep track is worn in the roadway
beneath by the passage of vehicles. The interior of the town is
completely deserted; no one enters it except the Cambodians from a
hamlet outside the enclosure, who cultivate a few rice-plantations. In
the centre are the ruins of a large and splendid monument, which has
suffered greatly by the hand of time, and perhaps also from barbarous
invasions. The ruins are surrounded by a double wall of ferruginous
stone and by deep moats; and at every entrance are galleries with
porticoes. A long gallery, 120 metres on each side, and with porticoes
at the middle and at each end, goes quite round the building.
Exteriorly, on each side, are two detached towers about 10 or 15
metres from the ruins. This gallery is formed by an interior wall and
colonnades supporting a vaulted roof, which in many places has fallen
in, and most of the columns are overthrown.
On the opposite wall are large bas-reliefs, forming series of subjects,
set in a magnificent framework, which is in so good a state of
preservation that the delicacy of the execution can be appreciated. As
for the bas-reliefs themselves, they are much injured, not so much by
time as by some barbarous hand, for everywhere are marks of the hammer
or pickaxe. Leaving this gallery on the western side, you enter a long
court, in which are three detached towers, and on the opposite side are
similar towers.
Several of these, which are from 8 to 10 metres high, and well
preserved, are real works of art. The mandarins of the provinces of
Ongcor and Battambong are at present occupied in taking two of them to
pieces, in order to transport them to Bangkok, the king having issued
orders to that effect, and appointed one of the mandarins to carry them
out.[1]
[1] In a letter from M. Silvestre, missionary at Battambong, to M.
Mouhot, but which he never received, the murder of this mandarin is
mentioned.
Beyond, extends a second rectangular gallery, connected with the first
by three parallel galleries and two transverse ones. At the points
where they intersect are ten towers, placed, like the galleries, in
an odd and unsymmetrical fashion. The perfect preservation of several
parts of these last, and the ruinous state of others, seem to mark
different ages.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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