Travels in the Great Desert of Sahara, in the Years of 1845 and 1846Richardson, James
History
Travels in the Great Desert of Sahara, in the Years of 1845 and 1846
Richardson, James
Sahara -- Description and travel
Tunis and Tripoli, and other parts of Barbary. To purchase the
co-operation of a volunteer in these countries would require more money
than defraying the expense of an expedition, and after all, from the love
of intrigue and double-dealing which Europeans long resident in Barbary
acquire, as well as other drawbacks, you would be very badly served.
I shall begin the narrative of my personal adventures in The Sahara with
my departure from the island of Jerbah to Tripoli.
_May 7th, 1845._--Left Jerbah in the evening for Tripoli in the coaster
_Mesâoud_ ("happy"). The captain and owner was a Maltese, but the colours
under which we sailed were Tunisian. Generally, a Moorish captain _di
bandeira_ commands these coasters, because it saves them dues at the
various ports. Indeed, most of the small coasting craft of Tunis and
Tripoli, though the property of Europeans, sail under the Turkish, rather
Mahometan (_red_) flag. Although May, our captain told me, it was the
worst month in the year for coasting in Barbary. The wind comes in sudden
puffs and gales, blowing with extreme violence everything before it,
prostrating and rooting up the stoutest and strongest palm-trees. So, in
fact, as soon as we got out, a _gregale_ ("north-easter") came on
terrifically, and occasioned us to return early next morning to Jerbah.
During the night, we were nearly swamped a few miles from the shore. The
_gregale_ continued the next two days, striking down several of the
date-trees with great fury. When these trees are so struck down, the
people do not make use of the wood for months, nay years, because it is
ill-luck. Jerbah is a grand focus of wind, and it sometimes blows from
every point of the compass in twelve hours. Æolus seems to patronize this
isle; and, as at Mogador on the Atlantic, wind here supplies the place of
rain. The inhabitants of Mogador have wind nine months out of twelve; but
seasons pass without a shower of rain.
_10th._--Evening. Left again for Tripoli. We passed the night about ten
miles off the island, amongst the fishing apparatus, which looks at a
distance like so many little islets. They consist of mere palm-tree
boughs, struck deep into the mud as piles are driven; and large spaces
are thus enclosed. When the tide[7] falls, the fish get entangled or
enclosed in these enclosures, and are caught. Very fine fish are taken,
and a fifth of the ordinary sustenance of the islanders is derived from
this fishing. Unhappily the poor fishermen are obliged to pay from
twenty-five to fifty per cent. of the fish caught to Government; so the
poor in all countries are the worse treated because they are poor.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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