Travels in the Great Desert of Sahara, in the Years of 1845 and 1846Richardson, James
History
Travels in the Great Desert of Sahara, in the Years of 1845 and 1846
Richardson, James
Sahara -- Description and travel
Salt is also exported from this
place to Europe. Here we brought up for the night, creeping and feeling
our way as in the days of ancient navigation. Our bringing up, however,
was fortunate, for the wind suddenly blew a gale from the N.W.,
continuing all night, and until next day, when it fell a dead calm again.
Strange weather for the fine month of May. But the Mediterranean, which
is called the "_home_ station," is one of the nastiest chafing seas in
the world, and in this fair season of the year is exposed to the most
tremendous squalls, nay, continuous gales of wind.
_13th._--We weighed again our little anchor, and in the afternoon cast it
before Rais-el-Makhbes, the last anchoring ground of the _bassa-fondo_.
The shore from Zarzees to Rais-el-Makhbes is extremely low. The
_bassa-fondo_ stretches off the coast in some places at least thirty or
forty miles, and is so shallow, that boats of the smallest burden often
ground. Here our Maltese captain observed to me, with great mystery,
"See, _Signore_, we must now be very cautious how we act, and watch the
wind, so as to take it on the very first breath of its being favourable,
for from here it is all deep water to Tripoli." In general, however, the
Maltese captains display more courage than the Italians in these
coasters.
_14th._--In the morning we cleared Cape Makhbes. The captain was to have
rounded it and entered the little port of Zouwarah, where there is a
quarantine agent, and landed me there according to agreement. I had
letters for this place, and was to have gone thence to Tripoli by land,
two or three days' journey. On remonstrating, he gravely asked, "Whether
I wished to do him an injury, compelling him to go to Zouwarah, from
which port he couldn't get out for the wind?" Perceiving the captain had
fully made up his mind to break a written agreement, signed before the
Consul, for the temporary advantage now offering, I left off
remonstrating, though extremely dissatisfied. We continued our course. It
soon fell calm, and, as usual, the calm was again succeeded with a
violent _gregale_, against which we could not make head. I now told our
Palinurus it was necessary to look out for the port of Tripoli Vecchia,
otherwise we should be obliged to go back or keep the open sea all night,
for we could not reach Tripoli to-day. Half an hour elapsed, and the wind
continuing to freshen, the captain took my advice. We turned direct
south, and sought the port. After experiencing some difficulty, during
which the captain, to my surprise, discovered the most serious alarm, we
found and entered the wished-for haven. It was a real miracle of good
luck, for the wind came on dreadfully, the angry spray was covering us
with water, and our sufferings would have been beyond description if we
had been obliged to keep the sea. Our bark was a mere cockle-shell, into
which were rammed and jammed and crammed twenty-two mortal and immortal
beings: _C'est à dire_, four sailors, fourteen Moorish passengers,
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
Reviews
Reviews
No reviews yet
Be the first to share your thoughts on this work.
Join the Discussion
Join the discussion
Sign in to leave a comment or review.
Sign InorCreate an account