I had grown completely tired of Tripoli, and left it without a single regret, having suffered much from several sources of annoyance, including both the Consulate and the Bashaw." FOOTNOTES: [6] Many newspaper articles have been written, and companies formed, for the promotion of exploring for sulphur in Tripoli (the Syrtis); but somehow or other, all these schemes have failed. I have been told there is sulphur in the Syrtis, and the failure of obtaining it in remunerative quantity is to be attributed alone to the chicanery or want of skill in the agent. [7] There is a far greater ebb and flow of tide here than at any other coast of the Mediterranean, the sea rising and falling no less than ten feet. This tidal phenomenon extends to the Lesser Syrtis and to Sfax. [8] Like the fish-lakes of Biserta in Tunis, these salt-pits were worked by the ancients, and have been inexhaustible and unchangeable through two thousand years. Whatever may be the geological changes in other regions of the globe, those of North Africa are not very rapid, beyond filling up a few of the artificial harbours, or _cothons_, with mud. Barbary contains several Roman bridges which have spanned a stream remaining the same size, and running in the same bed, through a course of centuries. The salt of the _Salinæ_ is of good quality. [9] _Bismillah_, "In the name of God," the formula used by Moslems when they partake of food. In the _Lingua Franca_ we have sometimes "_Avete_ bismillah?" or "bismillah_ato_?" that is, "taken your meal?" [10] In the present application, for this _Lingua Franca_ word generally means "vain silly shewing off." The "playing at powder," or "firing off matchlocks for amusement," is also called a _fantazia_ in Algeria and Morocco. CHAPTER II. FROM TRIPOLI TO THE MOUNTAINS. Leave Tripoli for the Interior.--Feelings on Starting.--Ghargash.--Gameo, the great quack of Tripoli.--Janzour.--Account of my Equipment.--Camels fond of the Cactus.--Arab Tents.--Jedaeen.--Zouweeah.--The Sahara.--Beer-el-Hamra.--Squabbling at the Wells.--The strength of Caravan, and character of Escort.--Shouwabeeah.--Difficulty of keeping the Caravan together.--Camels cropping herbage _en route_.--The _Kailah_ or _Siesta_.--Arab Troops seize the Water of the Merchants.--Wady Lethel.--Irregular March of the Caravan.--Aâeeat.--Descent into Wells.--Learn the value of Water.--The Atlas and its Tripoline divisions and subdivisions.--The ascent of Yefran, and its Castle.