Interview with the Commandant of The Mountains.--Military Position occupied by the Turks.--Subjugation of the Arabs.--My different Appellations.--Departure for, and arrival at, Rujban, native place of my Camel-driver.--Aspect of The Mountains.--Miserable condition of the Inhabitants.--Cruelty of the Tribute Collectors.--Marabouts exempt.--Curiosity of the Women to see The Christian.--Social Habits of the People.--Politics in The Mountains.--Visit from The Sheikh.--Various Conversations and Visitors.--Heat of the Weather.--The Sheikh offers to sell me his Authority.--Want of Rain.--Population.--The playing with the Head.--Pervading principle of Religion.--The Sheikh in a bad humour, and misery of Life in The Mountains.--Departure from The Mountains.--Description of the four days' journey from The Mountains to the Oasis of Senawan.--Dreadful sufferings from Heat and want of Sleep.--Provisions of the Caravan.--Stratagem to preserve Water.--Second Christening in The Desert.--Senawan and its group of Oases.--Resume our Journey.--Emjessem.--Met by a party of Friends from Ghadames.--Quarrel about Said.--First sight of Ghadames. _7th._--WAS awaked by a young man, who said he had brought for "the Consul of Ghadames" (myself) a brace of partridges, some milk, and grapes, from the secretary of the Commandant. Drank a large basin of milk and coffee, and went to pay a visit to the Commandant. Found all the principal Ghadamsee merchants at the Castle, closeted in a small apartment with the Commandant, Ahmed Effendi, talking over the affairs of the ghafalah. At first I imagined this officer had brought them up from Yefran to make them pay black-mail in various presents. But it was only his vanity which dragged up the poor camels this fatiguing route, an ascent of four hours. Our direct route to Ghadames would have been half a day farther west. He said he had merely sent for the merchants to ask them how they were, and give them his blessing. When I entered, a stool was brought me to sit upon. The Rais[12] was seated on a raised bench covered with an ottoman, and the merchants were squatted on their hams upon the matting and carpets of the floor. Coffee was brought me, as to most visitors. The Rais asked me where I was going? and what I was doing? as if he knew nothing about me. I then had my palaver, and represented to the Rais the case of taking by force water from the merchants, which took him quite aback, and astonished all present, the merchants secretly admiring the boldness of the remonstrance. But it was one of those unpleasant duties which are absolutely necessary to be performed. In our case it was necessary for our own health and the order and security of the caravan. The Rais surprised and displeased, nevertheless gave strict orders that it should not happen again. The merchants afterwards