Travels in the Interior of Africa — Volume 01Park, Mungo
History
Travels in the Interior of Africa — Volume 01
Park, Mungo
Africa -- Discovery and exploration; Niger River
_February_ 9.—Early in the morning we departed from Lackarago, and a
little to the eastward came to the brow of a hill from whence we had an
extensive view of the country. Towards the south-east were perceived
some very distant hills, which our guide told us were the mountains of
Fooladoo. We travelled with great difficulty down a stony and abrupt
precipice, and continued our way in the bed of a dry river course, where
the trees, meeting overhead, made the place dark and cool. In a little
time we reached the bottom of this romantic glen, and about ten o’clock
emerged from between two rocky hills, and found ourselves on the level
and sandy plains of Kaarta. At noon we arrived at a _korree_, or
watering place, where for a few strings of beads I purchased as much milk
and corn-meal as we could eat; indeed, provisions are here so cheap, and
the shepherds live in such affluence, that they seldom ask any return for
what refreshments a traveller receives from them. From this korree we
reached Feesurah at sunset, where we took up our lodging for the night.
_February_ 10.—We continued at Feesurah all this day, to have a few
clothes washed, and learn more exactly the situation of affairs before we
ventured towards the capital.
_February_ 11—Our landlord, taking advantage of the unsettled state of
the country, demanded so extravagant a sum for our lodging that,
suspecting he wished for an opportunity to quarrel with us, I refused to
submit to his exorbitant demand; but my attendants were so much
frightened at the reports of approaching war that they refused to proceed
any farther unless I could settle matters with him, and induce him to
accompany us to Kemoo, for our protection on the road. This I
accomplished with some difficulty; and by a present of a blanket which I
had brought with me to sleep in, and for which our landlord had conceived
a very great liking, matters were at length amicably adjusted, and he
mounted his horse and led the way. He was one of those negroes who,
together with the ceremonial part of the Mohammedan religion, retain all
their ancient superstitions, and even drink strong liquors. They are
called Johars, or Jowars, and in this kingdom form a very numerous and
powerful tribe. We had no sooner got into a dark and lonely part of the
first wood than he made a sign for us to stop, and, taking hold of a
hollow piece of bamboo that hung as an amulet round his neck, whistled
very loud three times. I confess I was somewhat startled, thinking it
was a signal for some of his companions to come and attack us; but he
assured me that it was done merely with a view to ascertain what success
we were likely to meet with on our present journey. He then dismounted,
laid his spear across the road, and having said a number of short
prayers, concluded with three loud whistles; after which he listened for
some time, as if in expectation of an answer, and receiving none, told us
we might proceed without fear, for there was no danger.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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