Travels in the Interior of Brazil: Principally through the northern provinces, and the gold and diamond districts, during the years 1836-1841Gardner, George
History
Travels in the Interior of Brazil: Principally through the northern provinces, and the gold and diamond districts, during the years 1836-1841
Gardner, George
Brazil -- Description and travel; Mines and mineral resources -- Brazil
On the 31st, at 3 o’clock in the afternoon, we set sail for Pernambuco.
On the second night after we left, while I was walking the quarter-deck
with the captain, the watch forward reported a sail close on the
weather-bow; the crew were immediately piped to quarters, and in less
than five minutes were all on deck ready for action. Shortly afterwards
we saw the vessel pass us at some distance and disappear. As these
packets generally carry home a large amount of specie to England, it
was not without reason that the captain prepared himself for what might
happen, especially on a coast where suspicious craft are not unfrequently
hovering about. There was something exciting in this little incident, and
it afforded matter for conversation on the following day.
After a passage of nine days, land was descried early in the morning from
the mast-head, and in the course of a few hours we could see it from
the deck, rising above the horizon like a long black cloud. On nearing
the coast, it presented a very flat and barren-like aspect, forming a
great and unpromising contrast to the magnificent entry to the bay of
Rio de Janeiro. The town being built nearly on a level with the sea, we
could only obtain a view of that portion of it which immediately skirts
the shore, the houses and the cocoa-nut trees appearing above the
horizon. No part of the coast within many leagues of Pernambuco rises
to any height, except that whereon the old town, called Olinda, stands,
and which is situated about three miles north of Recife, the name of
the seaport. While standing in for the harbour, we passed a number of
fishing-boats, of a very peculiar construction; they are called Jangadas,
and formed of four, or more, logs of wood lashed together, having a mast
and a very large sail, a fixed stool-like seat, but no bulwarks, so that
the waves constantly break over them; they sail with remarkable speed,
and often venture to a great distance from land. A few of the same craft
may be seen at Bahia, but none at Rio. The light wood of which they are
formed is obtained from a species of _Apeiba_, a genus allied to our own
Linden-tree. We anchored in the outer roads about 12 o’clock, and after
the lapse of an hour and a half, a pilot came on board, and conducted
us into the harbour, which is quite a natural one, being formed by a
reef that runs along the coast, at a little distance from the shore;
the entrance is through a breach, upon the south side of which is a
light-house and a small fort. A very heavy swell runs outside the reef
and breaks over it, but there is always calm water within; and at full
tide it is sufficiently deep to float the largest merchant vessels that
visit the port.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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