Travels in the Interior of Brazil: Principally through the northern provinces, and the gold and diamond districts, during the years 1836-1841Gardner, George
History
Travels in the Interior of Brazil: Principally through the northern provinces, and the gold and diamond districts, during the years 1836-1841
Gardner, George
Brazil -- Description and travel; Mines and mineral resources -- Brazil
The town of Pernambuco has few recommendations to those who are not
engaged in business. The houses are higher than those at Rio, the
streets for the most part still more narrow, and certainly quite as
dirty. In nearly all the towns and cities of Brazil, rain is the only
scavenger, and by it the streets are kept tolerably clean in such of
them as are built on declivities, but this, unfortunately, is not the
case with Pernambuco; in the wet season, the streets are full of mud
and water, and in the dry, the mud is converted into clouds of dust. It
has always appeared extraordinary to me that epidemic diseases do not
prevail to a much greater extent than they do under such circumstances.
The town consists of three great divisions: that in which the principal
trade is carried on, is situated on a narrow neck of land, which runs
down between the sea and a river from Olinda, and is called Recife;
another principally occupied with shops, and containing the palace of
the President, is built on an island, and is known by the name of St.
Antonio; the third, called Boa Vista, consisting principally of one long
street, is constructed on the mainland, and is by far the finest part of
the whole. These are all connected by means of two wooden bridges.
As Pernambuco is situated on the most eastern part of the American
continent, it is fully exposed to the influence of the trade winds
all the year round, and hence enjoys a cool climate; it is considered
more healthy than either Rio or Bahia. Except two or three churches it
contains but few public buildings, and, at the period of my visit, it had
not a single hotel of any description. The Palace in which the affairs
of the provincial government are now carried on, was in former times the
Jesuits’ College, and stands on the banks of the river; it is a large
building of gloomy appearance, with walls of enormous thickness. When it
was erected by these enterprising and charitable men, they little dreamed
that their career was to terminate at so early a period as it did. It
is handed down from father to son, particularly among the middle and
lower classes of Brazil, that the destruction of Jesuitical power was a
severe loss to the well-being of the country. There are of course but
few alive now who formed the Company of Jesus, but the memory of them
will long remain; I have always heard them spoken of with respect and
with regret. What different men they must have been from the degraded
race who now undertake the spiritual welfare of this nation! It is a hard
thing to say, but I do it not without well considering the nature of the
assertion, that the present clergy of Brazil are more debased and immoral
than any other class of men. However much the Jesuits were slandered and
persecuted from the jealousy of those who envied the respect in which
they were held by their flocks, and the confidence which they reposed in
them, enough of the good still remains to shame those who have succeeded
them.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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