Travels in Turkey and back to England — John Shaqi
Travels in Turkey and back to EnglandChishull, Edmund
History
Travels in Turkey and back to England
Chishull, Edmund
Turkey -- Description and travel -- Early works to 1800
After diner we took a walk about the village, and visited the low humble
church, which is here permitted to the Greek Christians. It has outwardly
the marks of no inconsiderable antiquity, and within it is the exact
model of the primitive Greek churches; consisting first of the πρόναος
or _outward chapel_, then the νάος or _body of the church_, with three
passages from the one into the other, and after all a chancel separate
from the nave by lattice work. We here observed no other ornaments,
than the pictures of _St. George_, the _Virgin Mary_, _St. John_, and
_St. Nicholas_, and another of our _Savior_ on the roof of the church,
which consists of a regular cupola. Before the altar lay the book of the
_Gospels_, with three or four copies of divine service; some containing
their ordinary _Liturgy_, and others adapted to peculiar months of the
year. The Greeks were now flocking hither to perform their devotions
before the picture of _St. George_; and the superstition of a woman was
remarkable, who prostrated her little infant at the feet of the saint,
and eagerly stroking the picture endeavoured to convey some hidden
blessing to the body of the child.
April xxiii.
This morning we mounted about nine a clock, when the Greeks were
preparing for the ceremony of the day. It was pleasant to see them flock
together to the number of some thousands, being of different sex, age,
and quality; but all equally regardless of the dirt and rain, which then
fell very plentifully. We followed them on horseback a little mile out
of the village to a large turpentine tree, under the shade and covert
of which they had placed the saints, which we had before observed in
the church; and there celebrated their mass. This was no other, than
what is ordinary in the rites of the Greek church; except only, that
it seemed to have some particular reference to _St. George_. It may be
here proper to observe, that as the priest made two elevations of the
elements, the one before, and the other after consecration; the people
equally adored them at the former, as well as at the latter[8]. Before
the consecration of the wine was completed, the priest mingled a little
warm water in the cup, and afterwards put the μαργαρίτης, or _consecrated
bread_, therein. All which he, and the deacon who assisted him, received;
and after the whole ceremony one of his assistants distributed two
loaves of unconsecrated bread[9] in little peices to the people, which
they received with as much hurry as superstition. The congregation now
break up, and carry back their saints in a tumultuous manner, one still
endeavouring to catch them from another; while he that carries them, runs
with what speed he can, and often strikes his head with the board, on
which they are painted, as a voluntary penance for his sins.
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