Travels in Turkey and back to EnglandChishull, Edmund
History
Travels in Turkey and back to England
Chishull, Edmund
Turkey -- Description and travel -- Early works to 1800
We mount by six a clock, and now determine our return to _Smyrna_; to
which there lies a straight tho difficult and craggy road, over the top
of the _Alymán_; upon which account we thought it preferable to take the
way of the plains. This first led us over the bridge of the _Caýster_,
and then quickly after round the abrupt precipice of the _Alymán_, and
that old castle upon its edge, which we had before so much in view, as
we rode from _Tyria_. From hence we pass thro a variety of low woods
and pastures, which in themselves were pleasant and diverting; tho the
fountains being all dry about this quarter, we were much distressed for
want of water. About four hours and a quarter from _Ephesus_ we descry
on our left hand, on the rising of the hill, the deplorable remainder of
the castle of _Metropolis_; and at the foot thereof such apparent traces
of foundations, with variety of hewn marble, as permitted us no longer
to doubt concerning the place of that waste city. And it may be added,
that computing our way by hours, as _Strabo_ does by furlongs[55], we did
not greatly differ from his account, who places it at little more than a
third part of the distance betwixt _Ephesus_ and _Smyrna_. Not far from
hence we begin to approach a small, tho not shallow river, runing on our
right hand, which probably is the _Phyrites_ of _Pliny_[56] mingling,
as he describes it, with the _Caýster_, not far from the _Stagnum
Pegasaeum_, or that lake, which we before observed in our way from
_Tyria_ to _Ephesus_. Beyond this river we saw a large extended pasture,
overspread with the flocks, herds, and tents of _Turcmen_. They had here
pitched their station to the number of fourteen hundred; for as we staid
to taste their milk, and to view their habitations, they themselves gave
us this account, reckoning about two hundred tents, and seven persons
more or less appertaining to each. As the whole race of the Turks were
nothing else but a numerous colony, that swarmed from _Scythia_; so these
_Turcmen_ seem to be the peculiar descendants of the _Nomades Scythae_,
or _Shepherd Scythians_, and like them make it their employment to breed
and nurture cattle. To this end they never assemble in towns, or betake
themselves to houses; but flit from place to place, as the season of the
year directs, and seize without control the vast neglected pastures of
this desert empire.
In two hours and three quarters from _Metropolis_ we arrive at _Trianta_,
a small but pleasant village, seated on a dry soil, and enjoying a very
healthful air; where we proposed to _conáck_ this evening. An _agá_ here
hospitably accommodated us with the convenience of his country house, and
likewise treated us with a small collation after the Turkish fashion.
May iii.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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