“We made an excursion to Yorktown, called also Little York, to see
that famous place, and particularly to inspect the great oyster banks
there. The inhabitants have not yet recovered from the disturbances of
war, and many houses are still in ruins or half repaired. The spars of
the ships sunk in the river to block the passage are yet to be seen.
We returned the same day to Williamsburg, to set out the next morning
for the South. Seven miles from Williamsburg, on the Southern road, we
came to James River, and after much delay were obliged to turn back
to Williamsburg because of an unfavorable wind at the ferry. The next
day at sunrise, when the wind is generally still, we came again to the
ferry and were put across, but not without delay. Lord Cornwallis was
the excuse. They said he had ruined the wharf, and the tide was not yet
high enough to take off men and horses from the bank, which is there
low.
“Not far below the ferry lies James Island, formerly only a peninsula;
in a fierce storm with high water the river broke through the slender
tongue of land. Jamestown appears in several modern geographies as a
place of eighty to a hundred houses. In reality there are there but one
or two, and they ruinous. The most valuable land in this region is that
along the rivers and creeks, not so much from the superior fertility,
as because of the accessibility to water transportation. Such land
sells at four, five or six pounds, Virginia. If the corn crop fails the
planter is in straits, and if the price of tobacco is high everything
else--bacon, corn, etc.--is high in proportion. Desiring gain, and
spending his time on tobacco, the planter loses through not giving
attention to those articles of necessity which he might produce at home.
“Five miles from James River we came to Surry Courthouse, where there
was a crowd, because it was court day. Eleven miles farther on we
passed Nelson’s Ordinary, and after ten miles more reached Smithfield,
or Isle of Wight Courthouse. The road from Williamsburg is mainly
through woods, but we passed more churches (five, that is to say) than
during any other day’s journey in America.
“Towards Smithfield the traveler passes beyond the tobacco country. The
chief exports here are tar, pitch, turpentine and salted meat. A barrel
of tar, thirty-one and one-half gallons, costs from 8 to 9 Virginia
shillings; a barrel of turpentine 18 shillings, and a barrel of salted
pork (220 pounds) 50 shillings. At Smithfield we spent the evening with
a party of gentlemen from the neighborhood. The conversation was for
the most part on the subject of Virginia, what advantages that State
has over every other State in the world, and how the nation of Virginia
is superior to every other nation--in resources, manners, purity of
speech and in all respects.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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