In the year VI (1798) there was published at Paris a book written by
a retired captain of artillery, Ferdinand Marie Bayard, described on
the title page, “A Journey Into the Interior of the United States, to
Bath, Winchester, the Shenandoah Valley, etc., etc., During the Summer
of 1791.” It is strange that this book has not been translated. It is
interesting as a sort of sentimental journey of a very intelligent
man (member of the Society of Sciences Letters and Arts at Paris),
who visited a spot not often mentioned by the early traveler in this
country. Captain Bayard was born at Moulins la Marche in 1768, and was
living in 1836. He was in his twenty-third year the summer of 1791.
He had already retired from the army and become a traveler in various
parts of the world.
Captain Bayard seems to have landed at Baltimore, with his wife and
small boy. He remarks, “The months of June, July and August are bad
for children if kept in town in this country. Bath, situated 120
miles from Baltimore, and near the Valley of the Shenandoah, offered a
stopping place in the country and a point of departure from which to
visit that fertile region, where, beneath skies almost always serene,
the inhabitants cultivate a generous soil, which rewards liberally the
slightest efforts of human industry. I wished to see this promised
land, from the bosom of which an innumerable population is beginning
to arise, prosperous and content, and already passing the limits of
the Valley to occupy the vast spaces beyond. Besides, before returning
home, I desired to gain a knowledge of the American people, and this
I could better compass in the country than in the towns. For the trip
I hired a carriage at Baltimore, at 41 francs the passenger, baggage
included. The owner was the driver, and a very skilful one, as we
learned on the road, which is often abominable and extremely dangerous.
“Four miles south of the Potomac [by way of Ellicott’s Lower
Mill, Ellicott’s Upper Mill, the Red House, the Monocacy River,
Fredericktown, and Middletown] we arrived at Bath, in Virginia. The
town is situated in a triangular and very narrow gorge. The mountain to
the west is high and steep, and in the month of March snow and earth
become loosened from the declivity and descend in avalanches. The
houses built next to this dangerous mountain are protected by heavy
palisades. Several people, having neglected the precaution, have had
their houses engulfed. The residents boast of the climate--the winter
not too cold, and the heat of summer moderate. Bath has two public
buildings--the theatre and the bathhouse. The first is a log edifice,
and the second a framed barrack, partitioned into eight cells, in each
of which there are steps arranged for the convenience of the bathers.
The spring is hard by. The water is dispensed in a goblet by the man in
charge. The water is clear, lukewarm, and insipid, but very efficacious.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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