Travels in Western Africa in 1845 & 1846, Volume 1 (of 2): comprising a journey from Whydah through the Kingdom of Dahomey to Adofoodia in the interiorDuncan, John
History
Travels in Western Africa in 1845 & 1846, Volume 1 (of 2): comprising a journey from Whydah through the Kingdom of Dahomey to Adofoodia in the interior
Duncan, John
Africa, West -- Description and travel; Benin -- Description and travel
After marching five miles in the same bearing, over a good road
thickly wooded with beautiful trees of great height, we arrived at
Whyboe, completely drenched from a thunder-storm. Whyboe is a town
of considerable size, with a house belonging to the King, for the
accommodation of white men. The town is well built; but, like all
other towns in this country, the houses are all of clay. Here, and
wherever I have passed, no other material could be substituted, for I
have not seen a stone so large as a pea, neither at Whydah nor since
I left that place. It may be well to mention, that the construction
of the houses is much better than in many parts I have visited. Each
householder occupies a square of seventy feet, the backs of the houses
forming the walls of a square. The doors are inside the square, with
the exception of one, as an entrance. In front of the main dwelling is
formed a colonnade of square pillars. Under this colonnade, and against
the outside of the wall of the dwelling, is a clay seat, extending
the whole length of one side of the square, leaving a space opposite
the doorway. This seat is about five feet wide, and one foot and a
half high, having a draught or current of air generally. It forms a
very pleasant seat, and frequently a bed for the occupants. The slaves
or domestics generally occupy another part, but little distinction is
observed in general between master and servant, except in presence of
strangers, and that with a view to display their dignity.
If a glass of liquor is presented to the master, he invariably shares
it with his domestics, who are squatted round him. Upon a master
offering the glass or cup, which is never taken out of the master’s
hand, the other, on his knees, holds his mouth to receive what his
master chooses to pour into it, in the same way that rooks, when young,
are fed by the parent.
Cloth is manufactured in almost all the krooms I have yet passed; but
their method is so tedious, that it becomes expensive; consequently
numbers, both male and female, are entirely naked. Those who can afford
it generally wear a cloth round their loins, as at Whydah and other
places on the coast. Here, to my great satisfaction, my white servant
overtook me; Mr. Hanson, agent for Mr. Hutton, had kindly sent a native
with him to show him the way. Poor fellow! he was much fatigued and
wet, yet cheerful withal. He was a little feverish, having slept at
Torree on a damp clay floor; for even a mat was refused him, though the
King orders every accommodation to strangers. This is a proof of the
mistaken idea entertained of the kindness of the natives in general.
Two days before, when I passed, they pretended great attention, knowing
that they would be well remunerated; but this poor solitary white
man, with only a negro boy for his guide, they charged eight cowries
for lying on bare earth! This is a sample of the generosity of the
generality of Africans.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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