Travels in Western Africa in 1845 & 1846, Volume 1 (of 2): comprising a journey from Whydah through the Kingdom of Dahomey to Adofoodia in the interiorDuncan, John
History
Travels in Western Africa in 1845 & 1846, Volume 1 (of 2): comprising a journey from Whydah through the Kingdom of Dahomey to Adofoodia in the interior
Duncan, John
Africa, West -- Description and travel; Benin -- Description and travel
After the usual complimentary palaver on such occasions, the caboceer
and soldiers of Setta commenced dancing to their rude music. Their
dances, however, are anything but what an Englishman would consider
dancing, for they very seldom use their feet, but go through a number
of fanciful movements, according to the taste of the individual
performers. The principal movements are by throwing the shoulders
backwards and forwards, in some degree resembling the gymnastic
exercise used in drilling our English soldier in order to expand
the chest, but much quicker. Another motion used by them, which is
considered the most amusing in the dance, is a rotatory movement of the
hips, changing to a backward and forward motion of a most disgusting
description. After this party had performed their dance, my guard went
through a similar dance.
It was now about sunset, and I was very anxious to proceed, for, as
my readers will recollect, there is no twilight within the tropics,
therefore as soon as the sun disappears from the horizon all becomes
dark as midnight. We accordingly resumed our march, and at thirty-four
miles arrived at the town of Setta, where we were met by all the
inhabitants. A number of the caboceer’s people met us with torches,
it being rather dark. Here the crowd was so great, as to prevent my
progress for upwards of half an hour. After this we advanced to the
market-place, which is under the shade of three large trees, with
branches of enormous extent. Here they again commenced dancing, being
generally joined by the inhabitants of the town. I now dismounted, and
seated myself under one of the trees till this ceremony was finished,
when I presented the captain of each party of soldiers with a couple
of flasks of rum, to give a dram to each of their men, or at least to
give them each a taste; after which, we were shown to our quarters.
These were much better than I expected. Being very tired, I was soon
stretched on my mat, but was much disturbed by the caboceer sending a
band of picked musicians, with instruments something similar to the
hautboy. Although the sounds were not void of melody, still their
absence to me at this time would have been a great relief; but as I
knew they were sent with a view to amuse me, I bore the annoyance with
tolerable grace.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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