Travels in Western Africa in 1845 & 1846, Volume 2 (of 2): comprising a journey from Whydah through the Kingdom of Dahomey to Adofoodia in the interiorDuncan, John
History
Travels in Western Africa in 1845 & 1846, Volume 2 (of 2): comprising a journey from Whydah through the Kingdom of Dahomey to Adofoodia in the interior
Duncan, John
Africa, West -- Description and travel; Benin -- Description and travel
After crossing this river we entered the Annagoo country. We halted
a short time on the bank, to give the caboceer of Savalu time to
prepare himself for our reception. A messenger now arrived to say that
he would shortly be ready to receive us. I here changed my dress,
and substituted my military uniform. This caboceer was described to
be a man of great wealth and power, and a great favourite with the
King of Dahomey. He is consequently allowed a considerable degree of
discretionary power beyond that of any other chief, the caboceer of
Whydah excepted.
As soon as my rude toilet was finished, I mounted as a Life Guardsman,
but not quite so neat as when on duty at Whitehall. After advancing
about one mile towards the town, we were met by the caboceer under some
very large trees, where was a cranery. This place was delightfully
shaded. Here the captain of my guard and myself seated ourselves
under one of the trees, till this great personage made three times
a procession in a circle round us to the left, for it is considered
unlucky to form circle to the right. This caboceer appeared to consider
himself much above any other I had seen, either in the Mahee or
Dahoman kingdoms, now united. He would not condescend to walk, but was
carried round us in his hammock. He then alighted, and his hammock was
carried suspended to a pole, each end resting on the heads of two stout
slaves, who always proceeded at a trot. He advanced towards us on foot,
after he had displayed to his own satisfaction the richly ornamented
hammock in which he had been riding. He afterwards informed me that it
was presented to him by the King of Dahomey. He next went through the
usual ceremony of prostration, and rubbing himself with dust. He then
delivered a long address of welcome to the King’s English stranger,
finishing his harangue by saying that I was like to a man who had been
many moons searching in the bush for a large block of wood for his
fire, and had rejected many as being bad wood to burn, but to his great
satisfaction at last found a large tree of a peculiar description,
which burnt like a lamp. He said, that I in like manner had been
travelling through the Mahee and Fellattah countries, but during the
whole of my long journey I had not seen any town so great or so grand
as the town of Savalu, which I was about to enter.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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