Travels in Western Africa in 1845 & 1846, Volume 2 (of 2): comprising a journey from Whydah through the Kingdom of Dahomey to Adofoodia in the interiorDuncan, John
History
Travels in Western Africa in 1845 & 1846, Volume 2 (of 2): comprising a journey from Whydah through the Kingdom of Dahomey to Adofoodia in the interior
Duncan, John
Africa, West -- Description and travel; Benin -- Description and travel
The caboceer, whose name is Bagadee, is a very fine stout handsome
black, of very pleasing expression and address, possessing great
intelligence; and having travelled a considerable distance in the
neighbouring kingdoms, he has a tolerable idea of the geography of
the surrounding country. As we advanced towards the town, which was
certainly the most picturesque and grand of any I had seen since
leaving the country of the Fellattahs, we ascended six platforms
in succession, of flights of steps naturally formed, of a very
peculiar sort of stone, resembling petrified wood, and stratified
perpendicularly. These steps extend upwards of a mile in length, and
each platform is of nearly the same breadth, preserving the same
throughout; so that an observer could scarcely be convinced that they
were formed by Nature, were he not aware of the generally indolent
character of the natives. These platforms were about fifty yards in
width, with numerous little villages situated thereon, apparently
occupied by farmers, and here all the cattle are kept, of which there
are great numbers: goats and sheep only are admitted in the town. The
mountain of Savalu, from which the town takes its name, is beautifully
wooded to the summit, with bold projecting rocks or precipices at
different distances, showing their hoary crowns and angles, forming
a beautiful back-ground to the town, which, independently of the
neighbouring kroom, is certainly larger than any town in the Mahee
country, and before it was ceded to the Dahomans was always considered
the capital or metropolis. The houses are much larger generally,
and built with more taste and uniformity than any Mahee town. The
caboceer’s house is two stories high, and built on a platform directly
overlooking the market-place. His house and the market are separated
by a wall about ten or twelve feet high. The windows or light-holes
of the upper story are considerably higher than the wall, so that the
inmates, chiefly the caboceer’s wives, can overlook the whole of the
market-place, and in fact the whole town, being situated on the base of
the mountain.
We remained in the market-place about an hour and a half, drinking rum
and peto, the soldiers of each guard alternately dancing and keeping up
an irregular fire. During this time the caboceer’s wives were stealing
a peep through the windows, but the moment they were observed withdrew.
Amongst the soldiers of Savalu, I noticed the jester very particularly,
who certainly displayed more wit and fun than clowns generally do, in
endeavouring to fire off his musket, which several times missed fire;
upon which he shook out the whole of the priming, and spit into the
pan, and again snapped the piece as if expecting the explosion would
fellow. He also performed several other antics equally ridiculous.
At last we were allowed to retire to the quarters which had been
allotted to us. These were a considerable distance from the principal
market-place.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
Reviews
Reviews
No reviews yet
Be the first to share your thoughts on this work.
Elsewhere in the archive
Join the Discussion
Join the discussion
Sign in to leave a comment or review.
Sign InorCreate an account