Travels in Western Africa in 1845 & 1846, Volume 2 (of 2): comprising a journey from Whydah through the Kingdom of Dahomey to Adofoodia in the interiorDuncan, John
History
Travels in Western Africa in 1845 & 1846, Volume 2 (of 2): comprising a journey from Whydah through the Kingdom of Dahomey to Adofoodia in the interior
Duncan, John
Africa, West -- Description and travel; Benin -- Description and travel
In a short time the aged caboceer, Nokoomakay, sent twenty large
calabashes, filled with provision, ready cooked for our breakfast; and
immediately afterwards his deputy, Adyamee, sent me thirty-two more
dishes. They both expressed regret that I should suffer from sickness
while in their country, but assured me that nothing should be wanting
on the part of their fetish-men and women in making intercession with
the great Fetish for my immediate recovery, and also expressed their
readiness to supply me with any thing necessary for my comfort. After
this they retired till we should finish our breakfast, when the deputy
caboceer again paid me a visit; and though they both knew I was so ill,
begged that I would favour them with a visit to the old man’s house
in my regimentals and on horseback. Upon remonstrating, I found that
my refusal was likely to create dissatisfaction, especially as his
messenger arrived to inform me that at a council of fetish-men they had
come to the conclusion that I should speedily recover from my present
indisposition.
As soon as possible I prepared myself, and proceeded to the court-yard
of the old caboceer, which was at some distance off. Having a great
many very low doorways to pass through, I was nearly bent double.
My horse also with difficulty passed through without his saddle,
consequently I was prevented mounting until I arrived at the caboceer’s
yard. Here I found the venerable chief seated under the shade of a
large cabbage-tree, in readiness to receive us. Upon entering the
court-yard, I found all his wives and slaves on their knees, with their
hands together and in front of their faces, as if in the attitude of
prayer. Upon a given signal, they all clapped their hands three times,
then a short pause ensued, and the same clapping of hands was repeated
twice more. This is a mode of salutation in Whydah to a superior, as
also as in all the Dahoman kingdom, as well as shaking hands, and
the cracking of the two second fingers of each hand, joined, in the
same manner as cracking the thumb and finger. The old man seemed much
interested in seeing my horse saddled, and also with my arms, and the
manner of placing them on the saddle to carry them. He next put a great
many questions to me respecting white man’s country, and seemed much
astonished at my answers.
The town of Jallakoo is situated on a flat-surfaced rock, at the
base of a mountain, from which the town takes its name. This is the
most picturesque of all the mountains I have yet seen in the Mahee
or Dahoman kingdom. One part of it is formed by the largest blocks
of granite I ever saw, placed irregularly upon each other: in some
respects their position was not unlike Stonehenge. Large cotton-trees
in many instances grew between these immense rocks, which support the
upper or horizontal ones. In fact, I have never seen any thing so grand
and so picturesque as the mountain of Jallakoo. It is also the last we
touch upon on our return to Abomey.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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