Travels Into Bokhara (Volume 1 of 3): Being the Account of A Journey from India to Cabool, Tartary, and Persia; Also, Narrative of a Voyage on the Indus, From the Sea to Lahore, With Presents From the King of Great Britain; Performed Under the Orders of the Supreme Government of India, in the Years 1831, 1832, and 1833 — John Shaqi
Travels Into Bokhara (Volume 1 of 3): Being the Account of A Journey from India to Cabool, Tartary, and Persia; Also, Narrative of a Voyage on the Indus, From the Sea to Lahore, With Presents From the King of Great Britain; Performed Under the Orders of the Supreme Government of India, in the Years 1831, 1832, and 1833Burnes, Alexander, Sir
History
Travels Into Bokhara (Volume 1 of 3): Being the Account of A Journey from India to Cabool, Tartary, and Persia; Also, Narrative of a Voyage on the Indus, From the Sea to Lahore, With Presents From the King of Great Britain; Performed Under the Orders of the Supreme Government of India, in the Years 1831, 1832, and 1833
Burnes, Alexander, Sir
Afghanistan -- Description and travel; Asia, Central -- Description and travel; Bukhoro (Uzbekistan) -- Description and travel; Burnes, Alexander, Sir, 1805-1841 -- Travel; Indus River Valley -- Description and travel
About fifteen miles from Rawil Pindee, we passed the defile of
Margulla, and descried with joy the mountains beyond the Indus. This is
a narrow pass over the low hills, and paved with blocks of stone for
150 yards. A Persian inscription, let into the rock, commemorates the
fame of the civilised Emperor who cut the road. The defiles continue
for about a mile; when a bridge across a rivulet conducts the traveller
to the next caravansary. A bridge, a caravansary, and a road cut
through a hill, and within a distance of two miles, bespeak a different
rule from that of the Punjab in modern times. We continued our march
to Osman, about twenty miles from Rawil Pindee. It stands on a plain,
at the mouth of a valley, close to the base of the outlying hills.
Its meadows are watered by the most beautiful and crystal rivulets,
that flow from the mountains. Some of them are conducted by artificial
means through the village, and turn little water mills that grind
flour. Up the valley stands the fort of Khanpoor, with some beautiful
gardens; and over it snow-clad mountains rear their peaks. The fields
of this fruitful valley lie neglected, from the exorbitant assessment
of the person who farms it. The peasants have no hope of redress but
by such an expedient; and this entire suspension of the labours of the
husbandmen may open the understanding of the misguided governor.
[Illustration: TOPE OF BELUR.]
~Tope of Belur.~
We visited Osman, which is about four miles from the King’s road, at
the base of the lower Hemilaya, to examine a mound or “tope,” like that
of Manikyala, which stands on the nook of a range of hills near the
ruined village of Belur, about a mile beyond Osman. The construction
of the building, as depicted in the annexed sketch, gives it to the
same era as that of Manikyala. Neither of the buildings are perfect;
and the one now delineated differs from the other in the greater length
of the shaft. It is fifty feet high, or about two thirds of the height
of Manikyala. It has also been opened, and the square aperture formed
of cut stone has descended into the building. The small pilasters are
likewise to be recognised, but the mouldings are more numerous, and the
general outline of the building somewhat different. The “tope” of Belur
is a conspicuous object, from its elevated situation, but I could not
gather a tradition regarding it from the numerous population. Like one
in search of the philosopher’s stone, I was led from place to place,
and now learned that there were two buildings similar to these “topes,”
beyond the Indus, between Peshawur and Cabool. We also discovered the
ruins of another tope, three miles eastward of Rawil Pindee. The few
coins which I found at the tope of Belur were of the same type as
those already described. Seeing that both the structures of Manikyala
and Belur are pierced by a shaft that descends into the building, I
incline to a belief, that in these “topes” we have the tombs of a race
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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