Travels Into Bokhara (Volume 2 of 3): Being the Account of A Journey from India to Cabool, Tartary, and Persia; Also, Narrative of a Voyage on the Indus, From the Sea to Lahore, With Presents From the King of Great Britain; Performed Under the Orders of the Supreme Government of India, in the Years 1831, 1832, and 1833 — John Shaqi
Travels Into Bokhara (Volume 2 of 3): Being the Account of A Journey from India to Cabool, Tartary, and Persia; Also, Narrative of a Voyage on the Indus, From the Sea to Lahore, With Presents From the King of Great Britain; Performed Under the Orders of the Supreme Government of India, in the Years 1831, 1832, and 1833Burnes, Alexander, Sir
History
Travels Into Bokhara (Volume 2 of 3): Being the Account of A Journey from India to Cabool, Tartary, and Persia; Also, Narrative of a Voyage on the Indus, From the Sea to Lahore, With Presents From the King of Great Britain; Performed Under the Orders of the Supreme Government of India, in the Years 1831, 1832, and 1833
Burnes, Alexander, Sir
Afghanistan -- Description and travel; Asia, Central -- Description and travel; Bukhoro (Uzbekistan) -- Description and travel; Burnes, Alexander, Sir, 1805-1841 -- Travel; Indus River Valley -- Description and travel
It is called “chal,” and has a salt, bitter
taste. The thinner part of the milk is considered a grateful draught
by the people, but to me it tasted sour and acrid. I believed that the
Uzbeks and Toorkmuns drank mare’s milk and fermented liquors; but these
are unknown in Bokhara, and only peculiar to the Kuzzaks and Kirgizzes,
between that city and Russia.
~An Eastern caravan.~
A caravan is a complete republic; but I do not believe that most
republics are so orderly. Of our eighty camels every three or four
belonged to different individuals; and there were four Cafila-bashees.
Still there was no disputing about the arrangement or order of the
march; and it is a point of honour, that the one shall at all times
wait for the other. If a single camel throws its load, the whole line
halts till it is replaced; and one feels pleased at such universal
sympathy. These feelings make it agreeable to travel in a caravan,
for the detentions are much fewer than would really be imagined. The
more I mingled with Asiatics in their own sphere, and judged them by
their own standard, I imbibed more favourable impressions regarding
them. One does not see in civilised Europe that generous feeling,
which induces the natives of Asia, great and small, to share with each
other every mouthful that they possess. Among Mahommedans we have no
distinction of gentleman and villain,--at least, so far as hospitality
is concerned. The khan fares as simply as the peasant; and never offers
to raise a morsel to his lips till he has shared it with those near
him. I myself frequently have been partaker of this bounty from rich
and poor, for nothing is enjoyed without society. How different is
the feeling that besets the sots of lower society in Britain! Nor is
this good fellowship among the Asiatics confined to the travelled
merchant: it is to be found in the towns as well as the country. It
is a pity that civilisation, with all its advantages, does not retain
for us these virtues. Barbarians are hospitable, civilised men are
polite; but hospitality added to politeness makes it more acceptable.
A caravan is an interesting scene at all times; and the shifts of the
pious to prevent its detention in the Toorkmun desert were not unworthy
of notice. The line was too extended to sound a general halt for
prayers; and at the appointed time, each individual was to be seen on
the back of his camel or in his pannier, performing his orisons before
the Deity, in the best manner which he could accomplish them. The laws
of the Prophet admit of a true believer being cleansed by sand, where
there is no water; and the back of a horse or a camel is as legitimate
a position for prayer, as the most splendid mosque of a city. The busy
scene on our reaching the halting-ground in the evening, was both
lively and entertaining. The Uzbeks, like ourselves, do not water their
horses when they are warm: in this journey, we had no sooner arrived
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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