Travels Into Bokhara (Volume 2 of 3): Being the Account of A Journey from India to Cabool, Tartary, and Persia; Also, Narrative of a Voyage on the Indus, From the Sea to Lahore, With Presents From the King of Great Britain; Performed Under the Orders of the Supreme Government of India, in the Years 1831, 1832, and 1833Burnes, Alexander, Sir
History
Travels Into Bokhara (Volume 2 of 3): Being the Account of A Journey from India to Cabool, Tartary, and Persia; Also, Narrative of a Voyage on the Indus, From the Sea to Lahore, With Presents From the King of Great Britain; Performed Under the Orders of the Supreme Government of India, in the Years 1831, 1832, and 1833
Burnes, Alexander, Sir
Afghanistan -- Description and travel; Asia, Central -- Description and travel; Bukhoro (Uzbekistan) -- Description and travel; Burnes, Alexander, Sir, 1805-1841 -- Travel; Indus River Valley -- Description and travel
The Toorkmun camp, or “oba,” at which we halted, presented to us a
scene of great novelty. It consisted of about 150 conical moveable
huts, called “khirgahs,” which were perched on a rising ground. There
was no order in the distribution, and they stood like so many gigantic
beehives, which, if they had not had black roofs, might not be a bad
comparison; and we might also take the children as the bees, for they
were very numerous. I wondered at the collection of so many rising
plunderers. Seeing the Toorkmuns in a body, it may be certainly
distinguished, that they have something Tatar in their appearance;
their eyes are small, and the eyelids appear swollen. They are a
handsome race of people. All of them were dressed in the “tilpak,” a
square or conical black cap of sheep-skin, about a foot high, which is
far more becoming than a turban, and gives to a party of Toorkmuns the
appearance of a soldierlike and disciplined body. The Toorkmuns are
remarkably fond of bright-coloured clothes, and choose the lightest
shades of red, green, and yellow, as the patterns of their flowing
“chupkuns,” or pelisses. They sauntered about their encampment in a
great state of listlessness; and what have they to do but to live on
the proceeds of their last foray? They have but few fields, and one or
two individuals may tend their countless flocks at pasture. Their dogs,
indeed, perform this office for them. These animals are very docile,
but ferocious to a stranger: they are shaggy, appearing to be of the
mastiff breed, and bear a high price even among these people. The
martial habits of the Toorkmuns appeared in my eyes the more striking,
as they had cleared the circle of their encampment of brushwood for
about a mile round. It had, I believe, been cut for firewood; but the
resemblance to an esplanade, or a parade ground, was none the less on
that account. In my notice of the Toorkmuns, I must not now forget the
ladies, whose head-dress would do honour to the galaxy of an English
ball-room. It consists of a lofty white turban, shaped like a military
chako, but higher, over which a red or white scarf is thrown, that
falls down to the waist. Some of these Toorkmun females were fair and
handsome, adorning themselves with a variety of ornaments, that were
attached to their hair, which hangs in tresses over their shoulders.
Their head-dress is, perhaps, a little large, but they themselves are
generally on a large scale, and as they never veil it becomes them. The
other part of their costume is a long gown that reaches to the ancle,
and hides both it and the waist, the very standard points of beauty in
our country; but so it is, that nations remote from each other differ
not more in language and laws than in taste and manners.
~Orgunje officers.~
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