Travels Into Bokhara (Volume 2 of 3): Being the Account of A Journey from India to Cabool, Tartary, and Persia; Also, Narrative of a Voyage on the Indus, From the Sea to Lahore, With Presents From the King of Great Britain; Performed Under the Orders of the Supreme Government of India, in the Years 1831, 1832, and 1833Burnes, Alexander, Sir
History
Travels Into Bokhara (Volume 2 of 3): Being the Account of A Journey from India to Cabool, Tartary, and Persia; Also, Narrative of a Voyage on the Indus, From the Sea to Lahore, With Presents From the King of Great Britain; Performed Under the Orders of the Supreme Government of India, in the Years 1831, 1832, and 1833
Burnes, Alexander, Sir
Afghanistan -- Description and travel; Asia, Central -- Description and travel; Bukhoro (Uzbekistan) -- Description and travel; Burnes, Alexander, Sir, 1805-1841 -- Travel; Indus River Valley -- Description and travel
On the morning of the 29th of August we moved at dawn, with buoyant
spirits, and followed the course of the Moorghab, or river of Merve,
for twelve miles before we could cross it. We found it about eighty
yards wide and five feet deep, running within steep clayey banks, at
the rate of five miles an hour. We crossed by an indifferent ford, over
a clay bottom with many holes. There was no village; but the place is
called Uleesha. This river rises on the mountains of Huzara, and was
long believed to fall into the Oxus or the Caspian. Both opinions are
erroneous, since it forms a lake, or loses itself in one, about fifty
miles N.W. of Merve. This river was formerly dammed above Merve, which
turned the principal part of its waters to that neighbourhood, and
raised that city to the state of richness and opulence which it once
enjoyed. The dam was thrown down about forty-five years ago, by Shah
Moorad, a king of Bokhara, and the river only now irrigates the country
in its immediate vicinity, where it is covered with the tenements, or
“obas,” of the Toorkmuns; for there are no fixed villages. These people
cultivate by irrigation, and every thing grows in rich luxuriance. The
Juwaree (holcus sorghum) has a stalk thicker than a walking-stick, and
in the uncultivated parts there is the richest fodder for cattle and
the finest thorny shrubs for the camel, an animal which is here found
in vast herds. Above Merve the country is called Maroochak, and said to
be unhealthy: there is a proverb, at least, which runs thus,--“Before
God gets intelligence, the water of Maroochak has killed the man.”[2]
This river is the Epardus of Arrian, a word which, I observe in one
author, is said to mean _irrigator_,--nor is it here misapplied. The
historian would even appear to have been acquainted with its course;
for we are told that the Epardus “hides its streams in the sand, as did
many other great rivers.”[3]
~Amusements.~
The transition which we had experienced, from a sandy desert to the
verge of a running stream, was most gratifying; every one seemed
delighted, and even the animals appeared to feel the change. Throughout
the day the banks presented a spectacle of merriment and joy; the
Toorkmuns plunging into the water with their horses, and the greater
part of the caravan sporting about in the stream. We hit upon a
contrivance, which contributed not a little to our sport, and produced
a “tunga,” or the third part of a rupee, which was to be the reward
of the person who could first cross the river. The enormous sum was
solemnly vested in a committee; I believe even the blessing was said;
and sixteen competitors appeared on the occasion. It was won by a
Toorkmun of Shurukhs, who had the art of running quickest in the deep
water.
~Knights and heroines of Merve.~
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