Travels into Bokhara (Volume 3 of 3): Being the Account of A Journey from India to Cabool, Tartary, and Persia; Also, Narrative of a Voyage on the Indus, From the Sea to Lahore, With Presents From the King of Great Britain; Performed Under the Orders of the Supreme Government of India, in the Years 1831, 1832, and 1833Burnes, Alexander, Sir
History
Travels into Bokhara (Volume 3 of 3): Being the Account of A Journey from India to Cabool, Tartary, and Persia; Also, Narrative of a Voyage on the Indus, From the Sea to Lahore, With Presents From the King of Great Britain; Performed Under the Orders of the Supreme Government of India, in the Years 1831, 1832, and 1833
Burnes, Alexander, Sir
Afghanistan -- Description and travel; Asia, Central -- Description and travel; Bukhoro (Uzbekistan) -- Description and travel; Burnes, Alexander, Sir, 1805-1841 -- Travel; Indus River Valley -- Description and travel
Tatta stands on the high road from India to Hinglaj, in Mekran, a place
of pilgrimage and great celebrity, situated under the barren mountains
of Hala (the Irus of the ancients), and marked only by a spring of
fresh water, without house or temple. The spot is believed to have been
visited by Ramchunder, the Hindoo demi-god, himself; an event which
is chronicled on the rock, with figures of the sun and moon engraven
as further testimony! The distance from Tatta exceeds 200 miles; and
the road passes by Curachee, Soumeeanee, and the province of Lus, the
country of the Noomrees, a portion of the route of Alexander the Great.
A journey to Hinglaj purifies the pilgrim from his sins; a cocoa-nut,
cast into a cistern, exhibits the nature of his career: if the water
bubbles up, his life has been, and will continue, pure; but if still
and silent, the Hindoo must undergo further penance, to appease the
deity. The tribe of Goseins, who are a kind of religious mendicants,
though frequently merchants and most wealthy, frequent this sequestered
place, and often extend their journey to an island called Seetadeep,
not far from Bunder Abbass, in Persia. They travel in caravans of an
hundred, or even more, under an “agwa,” or spiritual guide. At Tatta
they are furnished by the high-priest with a rod, which is supposed
to partake of his own virtues, and to conduct the _cortège_ to its
destination. In exchange for its talismanic powers, each pilgrim pays
three rupees and a half, and faithfully promises to restore the rod on
his return; for no one dares to reside in so holy and solitary a spot.
The “agwa” receives with it his reward; and many a Hindoo expends in
this pilgrimage the hard-earned wealth of a whole life. On his arrival
at Tatta from Hinglaj, he is invested with a string of white beads,
peculiar to that city, and only found on the rocky ridge near it.
They resemble the grains of pulse or juwaree; and the pilgrim has the
satisfaction of believing that they are the petrified grain of the
Creator, left on earth to remind him of his creation. They now form a
monopoly and source of profit to the priests of Tatta.
~Climate. Return to the mouth of the Indus.~
We quitted Tatta on the morning of the 10th of April, and retraced our
steps to Meerpoor; a distance of twenty-four miles, over roads nearly
impassable from rain. I observe, in Hamilton’s “India,” that there is
frequently a dearth of it here for three years at a time; but we had
very heavy showers and a severe fall of hail, though the thermometer
stood at 86°. The dews and mists about Tatta make it a disagreeable
residence at this season; and the dust is described as intolerable in
June and July.
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