Travels through Central Africa to Timbuctoo; and across the Great Desert, to Morocco, performed in the years 1824-1828, Vol. 1 (of 2) — John Shaqi
Travels through Central Africa to Timbuctoo; and across the Great Desert, to Morocco, performed in the years 1824-1828, Vol. 1 (of 2)Caillié, René
History
Travels through Central Africa to Timbuctoo; and across the Great Desert, to Morocco, performed in the years 1824-1828, Vol. 1 (of 2)
Caillié, René
Sahara -- Description and travel; Sudan (Region) -- Description and travel
After crossing this rivulet, my guides changed their direction: we
travelled five miles to the east over ground covered with khakames,
which incommoded me exceedingly. It then became stony and hilly,
and we proceeded a mile to the north that we might arrive at water;
and about eleven we reached a pool, the water of which was tolerably
good. We kindled a fire for the purpose of cooking our supper, but,
by the time it was ready, a violent storm came on. The Moors took off
their _coussabes_—a sort of tunics—and put them into the pots
to protect them from the rain: I did the same, so that we were all
naked. We collected wood, made a great fire, and huddled round it, and
in this state were drenched with the rain, which fell for two hours in
torrents: it was extremely cold, and as it may be easily conceived,
we were very uncomfortable. When the storm had ceased, we again put
on our coussabes, which were perfectly dry; but a mizzling rain,
which lasted all night, incommoded us much. The bad weather having
prevented us from getting our supper, we breakfasted at the dawn of
day with a keen appetite, though our sangleh had been exposed to the
rain the whole night. At sunrise we spread out the goods to dry;
all of them had got wet, the soil, composed of ferruginous rock,
being too hard to allow us to dig holes to shelter them in.
September 5th. At noon we resumed our route, travelling to the N.E. for
the space of twelve miles, and at ten at night we arrived at a camp
situated on the bank of a rivulet: here we halted a moment, and one
of our people went to apprize the marabouts of our arrival: he soon
returned and we entered the camp; I was immediately surrounded. The
marabouts made me repeat the usual form of prayer of the Musulmans:
_There is but one God, and Mahomet is his prophet_. I was besieged,
and could not obtain a moment’s rest the whole evening. The females,
squatted behind the men, thrust their heads between the legs of the
latter to get a sight of me; but at every motion that I made they
drew back their heads with loud screams, at the risk of upsetting
the men, producing confusion among the throng which kept constantly
increasing. Being warned by my conductors not to leave the centre
of the camp, lest I should be robbed, I lay down upon the ground,
and covered myself with a pagne, hoping that the Moors would retire;
but this precaution was of no avail; they continued to torment me: the
women, having grown bolder, uncovered me; the children, after their
example, pulled me one by the leg, another by the arm, while others
struck my feet or pricked me with thorns. Being unable to endure this
treatment any longer, I started up in a rage, and my persecutors run
away: I then went to Boubou-Fanfale, and expressed my dissatisfaction
at his conduct towards me. I represented to him that I was about to
turn Musulman, and that on this account he ought to protect me and to
procure me a little rest. He spoke to an old marabout, who had great
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