Travels through Central Africa to Timbuctoo; and across the Great Desert, to Morocco, performed in the years 1824-1828, Vol. 2 (of 2)Caillié, René
History
Travels through Central Africa to Timbuctoo; and across the Great Desert, to Morocco, performed in the years 1824-1828, Vol. 2 (of 2)
Caillié, René
Sahara -- Description and travel; Sudan (Region) -- Description and travel
We followed them soon afterwards, in a N. N. W. direction, over a
hard soil covered with coarse grey gravel. About eight o’clock, we
descended into a plain in which the vegetation was tolerably fine;
I particularly remarked the tamarisk in considerable quantity. The
herbage, though dry, on account of the season, afforded abundant
nourishment to our camels.
The inhabitants of the camp, apprised of our arrival, hastened out
to meet us: the women presented the children to their fathers,
who expressed the greatest joy, embracing them alternately, and
affectionately returning their caresses. I was much struck by this
interesting scene, and could not avoid comparing it in my mind with
the coldness, which amongst the Braknas the wife and children of
Mohammed-Sidi-Moctar had manifested on occasion of his return to
his family.
About nine o’clock in the morning, we arrived at the dwelling of
Sidi-Aly. His camp belonged to the tribe of Body; it was composed
of twelve or fifteen tents, covered with stuff made of camel’s
hair, pitched in a spacious plain, to the north of which rose high
mountains entirely bare and running from east to west. My joy on
finding myself in an inhabited region was extreme; the idea that
henceforth I might quench my thirst at my ease made me forget the
fatigue of the desert.
On entering the camp my guide met me laughing, and asked me to give
him my hand in token of peace: he inquired after my health and even
lodged me in the tent of his aged sister, who was so prejudiced
that she durst not approach me. I had soon numerous visits from
men and women; for Aly had related to his countrymen the various
circumstances which had determined me to cross the desert on my
return to my own country. The women, whom I found much more curious
than the men, teased me incessantly; they talked all together,
so that I was at a loss which to listen to. In order to attract
my attention, one struck me on the shoulder, another on the head,
and another pulled me by my clothes. Sidi-Salah, to whom I had in
the morning lent my wrapper, gave me some dates for my breakfast;
I found them however so hard that I ate but few, which nevertheless
renewed the pains in my jaws.
Aly, my guide, had couscous of wheat prepared for two Mahometan
priests, of the Trajacants who had travelled with us: I expected
that he would have offered me a small share, for I had eaten nothing
throughout the day, except the bad dates which had been sent to me;
but I was disappointed and compelled to wait patiently.
At sun-set, Aly killed a fine sheep to regale the priests; the
liver and suet were stuck upon skewers, laid upon the coals, and
eaten half-raw. He gave me a taste of it; the children and their
parents divided the entrails, which they also laid upon the coals.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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