Travels through Central Africa to Timbuctoo; and across the Great Desert, to Morocco, performed in the years 1824-1828, Vol. 2 (of 2)Caillié, René
History
Travels through Central Africa to Timbuctoo; and across the Great Desert, to Morocco, performed in the years 1824-1828, Vol. 2 (of 2)
Caillié, René
Sahara -- Description and travel; Sudan (Region) -- Description and travel
The remainder of the mutton made a plentiful supper; they gave me
a good portion of couscous of barley-meal, adding a small piece of
the belly of the sheep which had been reserved. Though this couscous
was detestable, both for its want of seasoning and for the great
quantity of fat with which it was made, I ate of it with appetite.
On the 30th of June, the women were early at work grinding wheat
for the breakfast of the priests. The means by which they obtain the
flour separated from the bran is as follows: they have two round flat
granite stones, placed one upon another, and set into one another
by means of a piece of wood fixed to the centre of the lower stone;
the upper has an opening through which the grain is introduced;
it is then turned with a handle. Two women are employed in working
this machine, although it is neither heavy nor difficult to move.
When the wheat had been thoroughly sifted several times through
a sieve of thin canvas, the two daughters of Sidi-Aly, as dirty
as their father, proceeded to knead it into a cake without yeast:
one of them made a great fire of tamarisk wood, to heat the ground
on the spot chosen for baking the cake: when it was considered
sufficiently hot, they swept the place and laid the dough upon
the earth; the embers were then replaced upon it and covered with
loose sand which had been heated for the purpose: when half-baked
it was washed, broken in pieces, and thrown into a calabash, full
of fat, the remains of the preceding night’s supper; a kind
of sauce was now poured over it and a piece of a sheep recently
killed was added. All the family and the priests partook of this
stew, and when they had eaten sufficiently they brought me a small
portion which remained, with a little sauce upon it; this formed
both my breakfast and dinner. On the succeeding days they gave me
nothing but dates; I represented to Sidi-Aly that they disagreed
with me, owing to the complaint in my teeth, which prevented my
chewing them without experiencing severe pain. Aly answered that
he was sorry for it, but he had no meat to give me; that in this
country dates only were eaten during the day and couscous at night:
the remainder of the rice which had been given me at el-Arawan,
was put into his tent, and the family ate of it without ever
offering me any. At length, having no remedy, it was necessary to
conform to this mode of living upon dates alone: but how much did
I suffer! I had soon a sore on the roof of my mouth, and fearing
lest I should be again reduced to the dreadful state in which I
had formerly been, I gave up eating these fruits, and determined
to beg a little camel’s milk from our neighbours, whom I found
but little affected by my petition. Aly had several daughters whose
young lovers were frequently coming to his tent; sangleh was often
dressed for their breakfast, but they never once offered me any,
though they knew that it gave me such excruciating pain to eat the
dates.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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