Travels through Central Africa to Timbuctoo; and across the Great Desert, to Morocco, performed in the years 1824-1828, Vol. 2 (of 2)Caillié, René
History
Travels through Central Africa to Timbuctoo; and across the Great Desert, to Morocco, performed in the years 1824-1828, Vol. 2 (of 2)
Caillié, René
Sahara -- Description and travel; Sudan (Region) -- Description and travel
Country of el-Drah — Zawât — el-Hamid — Bounou — Town
of Mimcina — Camp of Berbers — Tabelbât — The Tawâts —
Wells of Yeneguedel, of Faratissa, of Bohayara — Customs of the
Berbers — Wells of Goud-Zenaga, of Zenatyia — Town of el-Yabo
— Wells of Chanerou, of Nyela.— Arrival at Tafilet — Town
of Ghourland — Market — Ressaut, the residence of a Governor
under the emperor of Morocco.
On the 12th of July, we set out at five in the morning, after having
taken a little camel’s milk, which I bought with a glass bead from
my chaplet. We proceeded slowly towards the east, over a hard soil,
composed of grey sand, covered with vegetation, and intersected
with deep ravines. Aly would not permit me to mount my camel all
the morning; it was not till towards noon when he mounted himself
that I could obtain this favour. About two P. M. we halted on a very
hard sand upon which grew some zizyphus lotus; throughout the day
a strong easterly wind incommoded us much: at four in the evening
it veered to the west. At nightfall we were visited by a Moorish
priest whose camp was in the vicinity of our halting place. As he
was proprietor of several flocks of sheep, we wished to purchase
some mutton of him but he refused; and we gave him some barley-meal
which he undertook that his wife should dress for our suppers. He
sent it to us at ten o’clock, and had the civility to add some
milk from his ewes. Out of reserve he declined supping with us,
but seated himself apart and waited till the dish containing our
mess was brought to him.
On the 13th of July, at two in the morning, we continued our
route E. N. E., and crossed several sand-hills covered with dry
shrubs. About eight o’clock we passed the ruins of some mud-huts,
surrounded by a battlemented wall; opposite to these ruins is
a small square mausoleum, the roof of which is a vaulted arch.
Immediately within the little entrance door, is stretched a cord
from which depend numerous shreds of cloth of various colours,
which travellers had hung there from a sentiment of devotion.
Several pyramids of flint heaped together without cement, and about
eighteen inches in height, are another kind of offering made by
passengers to the manes of the sherif whose ashes repose in this
monument, and whose memory is held in veneration.
Here the Moors and Berbers of our little caravan went through their
devotions; after a short ceremony they took a little sand from
the place in which they had prostrated themselves and sprinkled it
over their camels and slaves. I learned that these ruins belonged
to an ancient village called Zawât, long since abandoned by its
inhabitants, who had elsewhere founded another town of the same name.
The soil of the environs is barren, hard, and full of stones of
various colours; a few bushes indeed are to be seen, but their
foliage is parched up by the sun.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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