Travels through Central Africa to Timbuctoo; and across the Great Desert, to Morocco, performed in the years 1824-1828, Vol. 2 (of 2)Caillié, René
History
Travels through Central Africa to Timbuctoo; and across the Great Desert, to Morocco, performed in the years 1824-1828, Vol. 2 (of 2)
Caillié, René
Sahara -- Description and travel; Sudan (Region) -- Description and travel
On the morning of the 30th of July, I seated myself modestly on
the ground at my host’s door, being well aware that he would
not have the complaisance to send my breakfast to this public
lodging; as soon as he perceived me at prayers with my chaplet
in my hand, he sent me some wheaten gruel but without dates. At
ten o’clock, I requested a Moor to conduct me to the residence
of Sidi-Habib-Bacha, at the small town of Ressant, two gun-shots
north of Boheim. This man obligingly complied, and we set out;
but we learned on arrival that the Bacha, who was indisposed,
would not come thither that day, and that he seemed to intend
spending it at his private house at Sosso, a village situated about
a mile and a half S. E. of Boheim. As I expressed a strong desire
to repair thither, my honest Moor procured a man of the village,
in the service of the Bacha, to accompany me to the latter. On
my arrival I was conducted through a large court, tolerably clean,
into another and smaller one, at the gate of which two sentinels were
sitting upon the ground, with their muskets resting against a wall.
My arrival was announced to the Bacha, who gave orders for my being
shewn in I found this Arab grandee seated, without ostentation,
on a mat, upon the ground, under a shed, near the wells, which
diffused a pleasant coolness. There were two Moors in attendance,
playing as it were, the part of courtiers. The Bacha gave me a
favourable reception and inquired the cause which had brought
me into his presence. I shortly recapitulated to him the various
circumstances which had occasioned me to take so long and arduous
a journey across the Soudan and the desert; informing him that I
was from Alexandria, whither I was anxious to return, but that from
poverty I had no means of conveyance thither; and being in ill-health
in consequence of the fatigues, which I had undergone, I could not
travel so great a distance on foot. Amongst the numerous questions
which he put to me, he asked how I had defrayed the expenses of my
route since I had quitted the negro countries: to which I replied,
flattering Musulman generosity, that every one had contributed a
small donation to the relief of my wants. He afterwards turned the
conversation to the Europeans, ridiculing their faith. One of his
Moors, a very corpulent man, hereupon sneeringly observed, “Why,
as Jesus is the Son of God, did he suffer himself to be crucified
by the Jews?” As this question was pointed at me, I replied,
that I was in no way concerned to support a cause the merits of
which I did not understand, and that the Christians must discuss
his objection. The Bacha then sent for his steward and commanded him
to give me some dates, which were brought in a small straw basket,
but of which I declined eating though I was politely pressed. By
order of this chief, I was reconducted by one of his sentinels to
my host at Boheim, with an invitation to repeat my visit on the
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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