Travels through Central Africa to Timbuctoo; and across the Great Desert, to Morocco, performed in the years 1824-1828, Vol. 2 (of 2)Caillié, René
History
Travels through Central Africa to Timbuctoo; and across the Great Desert, to Morocco, performed in the years 1824-1828, Vol. 2 (of 2)
Caillié, René
Sahara -- Description and travel; Sudan (Region) -- Description and travel
following day at his government residence; he also sent instructions
to Sidi-Mohammed, the sherif who had accompanied me in the morning,
to repair thither with me.
On the morning of the 31st, I did not fail to wait with the sherif
for the Bacha, on his road to the town. We stood up immediately
upon perceiving him. He rode a fine grey horse, and was escorted
by two soldiers, each armed with a musket. He halted for a moment
before us: the sherif, in accosting him, respectfully kissed his
white tunic; the Bacha spoke a few words to him in a low tone,
after which, raising his voice a little, he informed me that I must
remain at Ghourland till further orders, I readily concluded that I
had nothing to hope from his highness; and, returning to my village,
Mohammed confirmed me in my opinion. Sidi-Habib-Benani had set out in
the morning for Fez; having refused to give me a mule or any other
conveyance for three mitkhals of silver, the produce of the sale
of my two pagnes: thus I found myself at Boheim, without knowing
how to leave it. I had a very good coussabe, which Abdallah-Chebir
had given me at Timbuctoo; and I determined, at the risk of going
away without clothing, to sell it in the market, and endeavour
to hire an ass, so that I might be able to set out the day after
the morrow with a caravan going to Fez: the eldest son of Benani,
a merchant by profession, sold my coussabe for two mitkhals, which,
with the three others, sufficed to hire an ass. At ten at night,
I went as usual to present myself at the gate of my host’s son,
from whom, during the day, I had received as a present some bread
and a bunch of grapes: he also sent me a supper and I went to bed
under the sacred roof of the mosque. The court of this structure
was locked and the inmates could not open it during the night; a
circumstance which had nearly drawn me into grievous trouble. This
court enclosed the tomb of a holy sherif, long since deceased: the
following morning, my fellow-lodgers were scandalized to perceive
that this revered sepulchre had been soiled during the night; a
universal cry of indignation arose, and all eyes were turned upon
me. Amazed and confounded, I had not courage to assert my innocence;
my only excuse was ignorance of the localities, and I protested,
with perfect truth, that the profanation was not wilful but purely
accidental. This sincere allegation was, however, far from calming
the tumult, and I know not how serious the consequences might have
been, had not some old men fortunately determined to intercede in
my favour. They represented that my situation as a stranger should
be taken into consideration; that I was undoubtedly ignorant of
the existence of a tomb in this place; but that, supposing me even
acquainted with the fact, it was impossible I could have learned
amongst christians to respect that which is the object of homage
to all good Musulmans; that some indulgence should, therefore,
be shewn to my want of knowledge. This plea made an impression
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