Travels through Central Africa to Timbuctoo; and across the Great Desert, to Morocco, performed in the years 1824-1828, Vol. 2 (of 2)Caillié, René
History
Travels through Central Africa to Timbuctoo; and across the Great Desert, to Morocco, performed in the years 1824-1828, Vol. 2 (of 2)
Caillié, René
Sahara -- Description and travel; Sudan (Region) -- Description and travel
Sidi-Moula-Sitec, whose provisions for himself and his suite were
separately dressed, sent in the evening a copious supply of tea
to his travelling companions; they took it while waiting the
approach of supper time; and soon afterwards an enormous dish
of couscous was sent to them, which was speedily divided among
twelve or fourteen Moors, who disputed the possession of it. When
my muleteer had satisfied his hunger, he put the two or three
mouthfuls of couscous that remained, in a small basket, generally
used for feeding his asses with barley, and brought it to me, I
eagerly accepted this food, as I had eaten nothing all day but a
few dates. After this slender repast, finding that I should not be
permitted to remain beside the baggage, I went in search of a place
where I might sleep in quiet, and lay down at the door of the mosque,
near some travelling Moors, who were so much annoyed by my cough,
for I had a severe cold, that in great anger they even struck me,
to compel me to withdraw.
At five in the morning, I perceived by the arrangements which were
making, that we should not set out before evening, and determined,
though with repugnance, to beg in the town for some dates, a fruit
so plentiful in this country. I first applied to an old Moor,
who affected all the externals of devotion, but he shewed little
sensibility for my misery, recommending me to trust in God who would
assist me; a second brought me a handful of rotten dates, which I
could not eat; and a third, whose mien announced more charity, gave
me a considerable quantity, but they were harder and worse than those
which I had eaten at el-Harib. Losing my fortitude, and undeceived on
the subject of Musulman charity, so much vaunted among us, I returned
to our baggage, and, presenting my acquisition of fruit to the asses
which refused it, I breakfasted upon a handful of that which had been
given me at Boheim. Part of the day was spent in shoeing the animals.
About three P.M, being all ready, we took our departure, and
travelled N. W., over level and stony ground; the sun was setting
as we reached Rahaba, where we encamped under the palm-trees,
without the town. As I happened to be placed near the sherif
Sidi-Moula-Sitec, who had shewn me, on the road, the unexampled
courtesy of giving me a draught from the cup which he himself in
general used, I went to thank him; he gave me a friendly reception,
and, offering me his hand with a smile, told me that he had directed
one of his suite to supply me with provisions all the way to Fez,
and, to leave me under no uneasiness on this head, he renewed his
order in my presence; but the profligate servant took little notice,
and obeyed his master’s command for one night only.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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